29 January 2015 - We challenge a scamster at the Red Fort and feel a little overwhelmed!

Sometimes in New Delhi we feel as if we are walking through a movie set depicting an exaggerated crowd scene but the smells and noise and hecklers and filthy uneven paths jerk us back to reality.  It is the profound poverty that really strikes us as we walk past. So many people huddled under grimy blankets asleep on the street, in parks, on bits of unused concrete, so many beggars, so many with obvious disabilities which would have been treated with good care in a developed country.  I saw a young man with a clubfoot.  If he had had the good fortune of being born in Australia he would have had physio from an early age, operations if needed and orthopaedic shoes to help his foot straighten.  By adolescence, it is likely, in a developed country, that the disability would be barely noticeable but the misfortune of being born in poverty in India has left him able only to hobble along with his twisted foot in a sandal.  He was joking with his friend as they passed us and looked cheerful.  I couldn't help but wonder how different his life might have been.

From our balcony - Veggie Man calls out and all the residences yell down their orders!

What a load!

Ssleeping anywhere, chilling out...in the park.

So many sleeping rough.

Cow in street - not too happy.

Slightly happier beast!

Street scenes near Red Fort

Poverty in a picture.

Heavy burden on head - we saw lots of these.

As we exited from Chandani Chowk Metro, we followed the crowd to the main street through a few alleys feeling glad it was daylight!  The street scene that confronted us was quite extraordinary.  A cow or two, muddy paths and PEOPLE going in all directions.  Anyone with a heavy load carried it on their head.  It was certainly the dirtiest place we have been to yet.  Once again we a thankful to be here in the cooler months instead of having all this plus heat and more smells.

We pushed and shoved our way (literally) in the throng to the Red Fort.  We only had to pay for Karl, myself and Tim (250 Rupee each).  I quickly handed Karl the change (without checking - mistake number one) and we went to the entrance of the fort, through the inevitable security check and then through the covered market avoiding heckling, to stand before acres of beautiful buildings within the fort's walls.  It was then that Karl said something about only 50 Rupee change from 1000 Rupee.  They had diddled me!  It nearly happened the other day - they give you tickets, small denominations of change, then wait, until you indicate there should be more, then give you the rest of the change owed.  If you are in a hurry, then you rush off and don't get all the change due.  So, they'd diddled me of 200 Rupee - not a fortune, but ON PRINCIPLE, I thought I would go back and challenge them.  The same guy was at the ticket counter and I confronted him and he willingly handed over the 200 Rupee - he KNEW I was in the right!  And thus, I narrowly avoided another scam. Triumph!  It is so easy to get distracted in the crowds and rush especially with the kids leaping about.

Peanuts and popcorn.

Street scene near red Fort

Poor skinny horse.

Spicy mixes

Horse and cart

We had a lovely day looking through the museum about India's fight for freedom, and all the beautiful buildings which sadly are not all in good repair.  The inlaid marble decorations and carvings are beautiful.  Chipmunks were scurrying everywhere much to our delight.  such cute little creatures.  it seemed that many of the other visitors to the Red Fort thought Luke was also a cute little creature and asked him to pose for photos so many times that in the end he just ran off!

The Red Fort, looming huge over the entrance square.

More history for the kids to take in...

Boys enjoying underneath the arches.

Red sandstone - magnificent carving 17th Century

Lions and elephants fought in front of this palace as entertainment.

These little chipmunks shared our morning tea!

The other amazing wildlife we saw were kestrels or some kind of hawk circling and swooping and landing.  The pigeons were wary of whatever these birds were.  They were probably after the chipmunks.

Peeking through to the old mosque

No water in the system today but we could imagine what a lovely garden it would be with all the water features.

Acres of grass and gardens and spectacular buildings.

No water in this pool today but deep enough to have a good swim!

Very peaceful here away from the heckling outside the walls.

A bird of prey - waiting for his next target.

We finally left the Red Fort, glad that we had set aside a day for exploring as it is so huge.  Our search for lunch was satisfied with naan bread and dahl with tomato and red onion followed by potato patties served with a sweetish sauce and a sprinkle of salt.  Even Luke liked these hot from the griddle.  The vendor was delighted with our custom as we went back for more and more and encouraged a couple of other foreigners to try our discovery!  I couldn't work out the name for them but they were memorable!  

Strangler fig (?) doing its stuff.

Within seconds we had a huge audience of Indians!

We really wanted to climb up here but were not permitted to do so.

Red Fort in the sunshine.

Naan bread with dahl and salad - delicious.

Loving the food!! This street cart was very popular so we hope it was safe!

Enjoying Naan bread for lunch - 20 Baht for two naans and dahl!

These potato patties were a hit with everyone!

Peacock feathers, anyone?

By the way, we went back to the bread with curry potato stall for breakfast - brata - and bought some from the sweet smiling lady with her clean little cart.  Our regular orange juice man was there, too.  We'll miss our breakfast tomorrow as we leave early for Jaipur.  We stopped by our local little shop for some supplies for the bus.  The shop is reminiscent of a tiny country milk bar from the post  war days with fly screen cupboards as shelves and a limited number of supplies and so dim from poor lighting that I could hardly work out the denominations written on the bank notes.  The service is lovely and the dear lady there always says: "God Bless you".

Another great day, of wonder and mind blowing sensations and sights.  We are really glad that we did come to India.  All of the things which struck us as SO different initially, already have less impact on us: the rickshaws, the endless security checks, the grubby money, the filth on the streets and the heckling.  I think going to Thailand and Cambodia was good preparation for India, especially for kids.