Thursday, 15 January 2015

15 January 2015 - Siem Reap - The Grand Tour and War Museum

It feels very rural here with dogs yapping and the occasional cat fight and a stream of visitors through the communal eating area.  Very friendly and relaxed.  Delicious breakfast once again: the omelettes are sensational plus fresh baguettes, a custom from French days in Cambodia, and fresh fruit.  The locally grown Cambodian coffee smells sweet and is a little sweet to taste and really delicious.  Free tea and coffee and water for guests.

Our lovely tuk tuk driver from yesterday, Chia, was ready to take us on the Grand Tour and to the War Museum as per our request.  As we had the 3 day Angkor pass, it was good to make use of another day through ancient ruins.

We set off in the cool of the morning but the day soon heated up.  Another perfect blue sky day, tuk tukking along forest roads and past temple ruins, monkeys and little road side stalls.  We were really pleased to have decided to have another day exploring other temples.  They are all unique and the kids love the challenge of scrambling up almost insurmountable ancient stairs (with no rails) and walking around unguarded heights.  What a lovely freedom we have - to explore these amazing temples in such a way that we cannot do at other world historical sites which are usually cordoned off.

"Halfway down the stairs is a stair where I sit..."
Pre Rup from a different approach

First stop was the temple we finished at yesterday from a different approach.  The stairs were awesome: steep, risky and FUN! Pre Rup was excellent to scramble through the four towers which previously housed buddhas.  Excellent fun going down!  Annika and Karl took the wooden steps but the boys and I did the scrambling.  Little kids at the base asked for money - always sad.  We walked around the base reflecting on the number of others who may have done this over the past 1000 years!

Tempting...

Not sure how monks in robes ever made it up and down these temples.

Children asking for money "Dollar, Madam?"

Exploring

Next stop was Neak Pean.  We walked across a causeway, over a lake of twisted vines and branches, still in the quiet morning.  Cambodian land mine victims were playing traditional instruments to add to the atmosphere.  Neak Pean is water temple which has been significantly restored and has four pools.  Surrounded by roots and trees, there is archaeological work still underway and probably much more to uncover.
Still water from causeway

Landmine victims playing peaceful Cambodian music on the causeway.

It is indeed very peaceful here, not many tourists.

East Mebon was next and again different from the others.  There was elephants guarding four corners of the temple along with lions and again, it was great scrambling territory.  Our temple climbing muscles are well developed now!
Kids sell anything from water to keyrings - only go to school in the afternoon.

East Mebon

Note elephants guarding the temple.

Family photo squinting into the bright sun, but all looking to the front!

Ta Som was most notable for the huge strangler fig twisted through the wall - impossible to remove and maintain the wall at the same time...but the fig will keep growing...mmm...a dilemma!
Ta Som - not many people here, so extra special.

Love the doorways and intermittent shade as the day heats up.

Strangler fig engulfing the temple.


The other side

Intricate carvings everywhere, many in really good condition

For Preah Khan we were dropped off at the West Gate and walked through to the East Gate.  This temple had long corridors and fertility gods all over the walls.  We are so used to stepping over ruins and touching these amazing constructions. Karl and I keep reminding ourselves and the kids that these were all built somewhere around 1000 years ago and that is amazing.  How is our big question!  The kids will remember this temple for the terrific vine swing they had at the exit - just hanging in the jungle! 


Love the angles of the pillars!

The tree is winning here!

Tim "framed"

Marveling at the vastness

Sunlight streaming through

This temple had something to do with fertility gods...

Couldn't resist a jungle swing!

Freedom to play!

Working out the best arrangement of people to balance the tuk tuk.

We then asked Chia to drive us to town for lunch and he dropped us at Pub Street, near the Old Market. We wandered for a little but Luke and Annika found the smell of durian fruit in the market rather powerful and needed lunch.  Lunch was AMAZING.  Khmer sour chicken soup served in half a pineapple ($3.50US) was scrumptious and the fruit smoothies ($1US each) so nice that Karl had 3!  But it was Luke's ecstasy at being allowed to order two whole crabs ($6US) which is the highlight! - not that he ate much of them but proceeded to do a scientific presentation about their exoskeleton, their pincers, how their joints work and their predators.  It was hilarious. Wish I'd videoed the little scientist at work.  Fortunately, he did drink the watermelon smoothie and ate some garlic bread so at least he did have some lunch.  He is so fussy with new foods that we do struggle to give him adequate nutrition without too much sugar while we are travelling.
Motor bikes everywhere

Huge variety of rice at the old market in Siem Reap

The Old Market, bit stinky because of Durian!

Menu books!

Tim's squid soup

Annika's chicken and cashew nuts

My amazing Khmer sour chicken soup served in half a pineapple!

Luke's crab before dissection

After lunch, we piled into the tuk tuk again and trundled off to the War Museum ($5US) and a free guide.  It was well worth the free guide who himself was a land mine victim and showed us his rather old fashioned prosthetic leg.  He explained about land mines and weaponry and the history of Cambodia.  Since 1999, they have lived in peace.  For Tim to reflect that only in his life time have they known peace made him think a bit. From 1975 until 1999, the once peaceful country here had been at war in one way or another.  The guide also reminded us that boys as young as 15 joined in fighting and it was the poor communities who lost so many people.  Over 2.5 million were killed by the war.  In our life time, Karl and I remember news coverage of the killing fields and Pol Pot.  There are many on the streets selling postcards and other souvenirs who are amputees.  This IS confronting for the kids and is evidence of the horror of war.
Grim reminder of war.

War Museum

Old army truck

Our land mine amputee guide did an excellent job.

We came back to our lovely accommodation and quickly all jumped into the refeshing pool - aaah...so nice.  We were back early enough to chill a bit and we need to!

"Home" after a big day out.


Baguettes - so lovely

Meals in common area

Chilling by the pool.

We would definitely recommend V and A Villa!
As dinner was so wonderful here, unhurried and relaxing, we decided to eat at the Villa again.  After dinner we wandered a bit further down the main street to another, more Cambodian, supermarket for another different ice cream!!  Another found $100 US on the footpath! Boys feeling jealous as she had also found a handful of notes on the street in Phuket! We are not sure if it is a counterfeit note or not, but being a bit crumpled, the Cambodians won't use it.  The US Dollar is the number one currency here but they will only take pristine notes.  Small change is given in Cambodian Riel but anything else is US Dollar.
6-11 - as opposed to 7-11 we find everywhere in Thailand!

Another wonderful day in Cambodia.  We could definitely stay in Siem Reap longer.  There is so much more to see next time.





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