Saturday, 31 January 2015

31 January 2015 - Side street dairies and other animals in Jaipur

Breakfast was included in our Suryaa Villa "special offer" so we made our way downstairs to the lovely dining area.  As it is still chilly in the mornings here, being a desert climate, we ate inside but later guests were eating in the lovely courtyard.  It was so peaceful this morning now that the wedding over the road seems to have finished.  Mind you we heard dozens of explosions late at night last night which we think were fireworks.  These are let off regularly in the evenings in India and also at odd hours during the night!

Luke pointing to his bedroom window
Roof top views
Whilst everyone else chose conventional breakfasts, I chose the stuffed parantha which are flat bready like pancake sized circles filled with vegetables and served with natural yoghurt.  That plus masala tea was a more than adequate breakfast.
View from roof top to courtyard Saryaa Villa
We set out on our morning walk and seemed to come across "Pharmacy Road" where there were shop after shop selling pharmaceuticals near the hospitals. There are loads of clinics around here with typical Indian doctor names: Gupta, Agarwal, Patel, Singh - just like at home! Not to mention the Eternal Hospital Cardiology Unit - would you go there? !

One of many pharmacy where you can buy anything without prescription - no wonder there are resistant bugs out there!
We bought some travel sickness tablets for our next bus journey and inquired about the price and availability of Annika's medication which is SO expensive at home and we have to go to the Royal Children's Hospital to get it.  Here it was, cheap and available without prescription and no special letter required!  The quality of medicine here, of course, is quite questionable, so we have brought supplies with us!

Eternal Hospital?  Might avoid it, I think!
Walking around our local area, we soon discovered the peaceful Central Park.  The kids had a great time doing handstands and tricks much to the amusement of the locals.  We were delighted to see kingfishers, quail and many other species of birds as well as the usual endearing chipmunks.  It was lovely walking in the shade and we found the exit for the Narayan Singh Circle bus stop to inquire about tickets to Agra. We found the ticket office, with the help of the friendly tuk tuk driver who lent us his mobile phone yesterday.  Karl, the ever cautious scam protector, didn't want to buy the tickets today without checking out all the details...so we'll trek back there tomorrow, no doubt, and buy the tickets...which I am hoping are still available for the 0830 bus on Friday.
Coofee corner!

Maharajah J L Singh being blessed by a hundred pigeons.

Handstand opportunity.


Birralee shirt travelling far and wide!

Kingfisher

Another beautiful bird!

By this stage, it was time for lunch and we enjoyed chhole and kulche - naan bread heated with fresh coriander and a delicious slightly spicy dahl mix.  Everyone but Luke enjoyed it and at least he ate the naan bread.  We walked on and must have missed our turn and end up at Ganesh Temple.  We had a quick look but it was noisy as there was a tradition of ringing the bells which were just too loud.  Our goal was to climb the interesting mountain and fort behind the temple complex.  We walked through narrow streets through what appeared to be a dairy area.  There were cows and their calves wandering around the streets and some housed sort of under the street in what seemed to be a local rubbish dump.  The kids playing around were smiling and curious.
Blacksmith at work.
"Parking for four wheelers "
Bus stop crowd

Chhole kulche for lunch

Hoeing into the Naan Bread

Limca drink
Curious cat.

Cows on the street.

At the end of this little enclave, we tried to reach the mountain and asked some locals how to access it.  Apparently it is only open on one day of the year - 17 February - and we won't be here. Too bad.
Carrying dried cow dung on her head
Now we were rather disorientated and eventually found our way back past another kulche and chhole cart which we availed ourselves of!  Armed with some more bottles of water we went back to the villa for a bit of down time.
Masala tea for me!
Luke had great fun creating tuk tuks with his Lego.  Listening to his play was fascinating!  There was a one legged man who had been in the war in Cambodia, a mine victim, tuk tuks imported from Thailand to India, tuk tuk drivers, disabled people who were given food for Christmas, naan bread stalls, policemen with guns, and precious rubies.  He was playing out all of the experiences he has had - how therapeutic!  What a lot he has taken on board.  He probably really needs to process it all and Lego is a great way for him to do this.
Lego tuk tuk!
Annika and I sat down in the courtyard and played chess.  The kids are keen to play which is great because I could never enthuse them at home!
My chess opponent

Chillin'
Selfie on the roof top swinging chair!

Swinging chair in the late afternoon
Towards dusk, Annika and I walked out in the much cooler weather to buy some bananas and apples and orange juice.  We also bought some crunchy peanut crackle toffee which the kids consumed away from Luke as he is allergic to peanuts and goes a bit silly if we eat peanuts near him.  The highlight of our walk was seeing a hawk sitting in some rubbish.  It had a broken wing but was moving around well and sought shelter in some bushes.  Not sure if animal welfare would be high on the locals' list when they are so poor.  In the back streets there are many little grubby dentists offering all sorts of dental treatment.  We saw a miller milling flour and a little tailor's shop, too.

Back street miller -  making "wheat powder" he told us.
Hawk? - bird of prey

Injured bird
Not sure what there ceramics pots are used for.
Elephants down the road!
 We feel very gritty and grimy at the end of our days as there is a fine patina of dust in the air and awful air pollution from all the vehicles not to mention the filthy footpaths with piles of stinky rubbish, excrement and open urinals.  In amongst all of this, there are smiling people ready for a chat, beggars, elephants, spice and produce carts and a thousand horns beeping, tuk tuks, motor bikes, cars, buses, vans and trucks competing for space on the roads and we are in the midst of it all!  This is India.

Friday, 30 January 2015

30 January 2015 - Waltzing all the way to Jaipur

Karl had pre-arranged a taxi for 0700hrs on the proviso, that if it wasn't there by 0710hrs, we'd go elsewhere.  Predictably, we switched to Plan B, a funny parade of hybrid packs and daypacks trundling along the cracked up roads, to a 24 hour Taxi stand we had spotted the other day.  After a bit of shouting down the street, a taxi and driver pulled up and drove us carefully to Bikaner House for the bus for Jaipur.  We had plenty of time but couldn't swap for an earlier bus so we hung around the chilly waiting room and foraged for snacks.  We bought drinks all round except for Luke who is refusing anything but Sprite and naan bread.
All of our gear for a year!

OutsideL-6 Lajpat Nagar
24 Hour taxi stand

We all fitted in with Karl's big pack on the roof!

Bikaner House

Our bus left promptly and was initially quite comfortable.  As the sun rose Annika and I got hot as there were no curtains, only hooks where they had once been!  The heat was horrible and despite requests, the driver didn't oblige with cooler conditions.  It really was an uncomfortable journey made amusing and eyebrow-raising by the driver waltzing across 4 or even 6 lanes (lanes marked on the road) of traffic in a single manoeuvre and beeping all the way.  The noise and the swerves and risks were outstanding.  So many near misses!  And mostly too fast to catch on camera.  Sometimes I laughed out loud!  The tiny spaces he tried to squeeze the big bus in were unfathomable!  It was like he thought he was in charge of a tuk tuk!

Bus to Jaipur

Brothers
We stopped at a magnificent "oasis" for lunch where the kids could run around, the toilets were clean and we could get food.  We only had 20 minutes and got drinks and naan bread and more chips.  Luke wouldn't even try a lassi no matter how much we tried to convince him.  He is so reluctant to try new things and we are worried about his nutrition.
Lunch break at the oasis
Back on the bus, the mad driving continued and the heat worsened and I tried my best not to vomit.  For those who know me well, they will know I can barely last from Blackburn North to Box Hill on a bus without feeling really sick!  5 1/2 hours of this bus nearly did me in!
People of Rajastan
However, despite all of this, the scenery was mind blowing.  As we neared the end of sprawling New Delhi, the number of cows and goats grazing or lazing by the roadside increased.  We saw pigs and sheep, camels and even elephants, and the tents and makeshift dwellings of many.  The architecture became more and more desert friendly with flat roof tops and stone buildings, craggy rocks and rough stone hills.  Luke's eyes were open wide checking out the hill top dwellings and animals.
Street scenes en route
We finally got off the bus at Nayaran Singh Circle as instructed.  I thought to myself: "we are in "real" India now".  We borrowed a mobile phone from a friendly tuk tuk driver and rang our accommodation and shortly our driver came.  
Arrival at Nayaran Singh Circle
We pulled up to Suryaa Villa Hotel, slightly dismayed to notice an Indian Wedding park across the road blaring out the East-meets-West head banging music. From experience, these Indian weddings go on for hours and days so sleep is not looking good tonight!  The kids have a nice room with 4 beds to choose from over looking the courtyard and empty pool (it is winter) and we are across the corridor with a nice big bed but closer to the music.  The Wi-Fi works albeit slowly and we can take a collective breath that we have survived another day and have seen an amazing amount.  The hotel is clean but we are wary of service charges at every turn.
Bus hopefuls

Women hurrying by the road


An elephant charging down the road!

Local traffic

Elephant between two buses!

This elephant was charging along the main road

Cows just off main road.


Pretty ceiling at Suryaa Villa
Setting up Wi-Fi

The pool in winter - empty


Our first step out to orientate ourselves was fruitful in a few ways: We found an orange juice squeezer cart and gulped down the delicious nectar AND we found a vegetable pakora cart run by a smiling couple and bought 250 grams for 50 Rupee.  Their very sweet little boy was sitting quietly, just waiting and watching.  Can't ever imagine Luke doing that!  We even bought some grapes for Luke and some bananas and water.  At least we have a few supplies!  We seem to be the only foreigners around here.  There are very few foreigners in India so far and Luke's blonde hair is a beacon as we walk along!
Vegetable pakoras!

Cute little boy belonging to veggie pakora stall.
We had dinner at the restaurant here and it was lovely!  Aaah, the Palek Paneer - a creamy spinach and home made cheese dish!  and the lassis and the vegetable curry...We are avoiding meat as we have heard so many tales of woe where meat is concerned and many Indians don't eat it, so we'll stick to vegetarian and enjoy it!  Whilst we were waiting for Luke to finish, the waiter brought over a chess game which was a fun way to finish the evening off!
Jaipur neighbourhood
Street barber

Palek paneer