6 November 2015 - The Colosseum and other remnants of Ancient Rome

As I was awake early and the day was clear and sunny, I thought it would be an excellent day to visit the Colosseum.  I am not entirely sure everyone else was too happy about the early-ish start but they rallied to the cause.  The Colosseum was on everyone's "to do" list.  

Just walking over Ponte Umberto I ...as you do...

I had popped out to buy a few supplies but had to wait for the supermarket to open at 8 AM.  An elderly lady waiting with me was getting a bit impatient so she indicated that we should just walk in, but "piano" (slowly)!  From past experience, if I have not packed "supplies", the troops get grumpy and then there's the search for a supermarket which isn't always easy!  I was well prepared for at least morning snack!

On the Via dei Fori Imperiali

 We tried our hardest to walk directly to the Colosseum but it is so hard not to be distracted by ruins on the way!  We were eager to get to our goal before the big crowds and really didn't have to wait for more than 5 minutes in the queue.  We did feel a little smug afterwards when the queues were snaking and the sun was high!

Ruins EVERYWHERE!!!

Temple of Minerva

On entering the Colosseum we felt pretty small and it is certainly impressive.  Luke was pretty quiet and eventually told us he was really disappointed with the inside of the Colosseum because he thought it wouldn't be so "ruined" and that he would be able to climb all over it!  We have been so very privileged in our "ancient ruin" exploring on our trip and many places come to mind where we could roam freely and clamber over whatever we wished...and we did!  The Hieropolis in Pamukkale and the ruins at Laodicea were magnificent, not to mention Angkor Wat.  However, the magnitude of the Colosseum won him over and we really enjoyed looking around and being stunned by the height of the arches and columns.

And Luke was disappointed that it was so ruined?!!

 The Colosseum or Flavian Amphitheatre is elliptical rather than circular which would have made the calculations and measuring for the original structure quite tricky.  It is the largest amphitheatre ever built and could seat between 50000 and 80000 people. Eight years in the making (72 - 80 AD) with modifications thereafter, it was used for entertainment in the form of gladiatorial contests, animal hunts. executions, plays and mock sea battles until the early Medieval period.
 

Old stairs at the Colosseum - not used today!

Over time, it has been damaged by earthquakes and most notably by stone robbers and those who recycled bits of it in their buildings!  The first St Peter's Basilica scavenged 2500 cartloads of marble and there are probably bits of the Colosseum all over Rome, unrecognised!  Bronze clamps have also been stolen and so the walls looked pock marked.  This is also the case for many of the old structures seen in Rome.

AMAZING design

Grand against the blue sky

The genera public weren't permitted here...grrr...

Arches, arches, arches

It is good not to hurry these visits!

Through the arch to the Arch of Constantine

Pock marks from pilfering

Collapsed column

Nice of them to provide seating!

Imagine calculating all those arches and joining it all up at the final brick!

I wonder what this guy's ancestors saw!

Appreciate the size of the place: it is enormous

 

Hard to get a really good perspective of the looming walls and arches.

Having a rest...

Well, it was a marble horse in 1 AD - found in 2008 like this

I do like the shadows from the arches

Over the ages it was used for various purposes including accommodation but for many eras not used at all.  The person who deserves the most credit for saving the Colosseum is Pope Benedict XIV who claimed Christians had been martyred at the Colusseum and therefore it should be a sacred spot.  He halted the re-use of its stones and installed Stations of the Cross.  Although there is no actual evidence that Christians were martyred there, it did mean the Colosseum was no longer being slowly demolished!

From this time on, popes have overseen various restoration projects and so we have the privilege of wandering through it!  

A movable statue on ancient base.

Handstand!

Depth of arches - astounding!

Wall bracket!

Animal/prisoner cage

Arches and blue sky

When we walked around the periphery afterwards, we noticed some fairly crumbling arches in the process of being braced and retained.  Let's hope there's not another earthquake!

Outside and there is continuous maintenance

Arch of Constantine and movable gymnast!

Lovely, well preserved detail

Portable statue strikes again!

 The big kids decided they would walk home after seeing the Colosseum whereas Karl, Luke and I wanted to check out some more ruins and read the signs en route.  It is good that Tim and Annika are old enough and clever enough to find their way through foreign cites back to our accommodation.

Crumbling arches

Gate number XXVI - I think - numbers carved above each arch!

There were several birds darting in and out, enjoying their sunny morning.

Gladiator!

At the Roman Forum

Via di San Bonaventura

 Karl, Luke and I sort of just followed our noses past the Roman Forum and up the Via di San Bonaventura not really knowing or caring where we were going. It was the most perfect day for walking and with autumn colours flanking the path, simply a lovely walk.  We noticed ceramic Stations of the Cross as we neared Chiesa di Bonaventura al Palatino.  It was a little church, much less ornate than many.  A young history buff, Adriano, was offering free tours of the church, monastery and gardens.  I was keen to take up the offer, particularly as we saw the previous tour exit expressing their gratitude,

Adriano, was a wealth of knowledge about the history of the church, its lovely paintings in Caravaggio style and its fake "3D" ceiling.  The stained glass window was only installed in 1952 and depicts the Colosseum and Stations of the Cross.  The church was established in 1649 and the monastery attached is run by Franciscan Friars.  There are 8 friars in residence.

We saw a room in the monastery, the name of which escapes me, but it is where the friars get dressed and ready for ceremonies.  Adriano pointed out the wood work versus the fake wood painted on plaster and the fake "3D" ceiling again.  It was a style at the time to save money but to still look impressive!.

Stained glass in Chiesa di San Bonaventura al Palatino

Fake "3D" ceiling in Chiesa di San Bonaventura al Palatino

Fake wood panelling in Chiesa di San Bonaventura al Palatino.

Then to the best kept secret in Rome: The Monastery garden, on Palatine Hill.  This very lovely garden with orange and lemon trees and autumnal colours had views over the Colosseum and the Roman Forum.  It had been difficut to actually build the monastery as ruins were discovered!  This seems to be a perpetual problem in Rome! Apparently, Metro Line C has taken 15 years to build because of the number of ruins it has encountered! 

Chiesa di San Bonaventura al Palatino monastery gardens.

Orange trees

Friars' quarters

Delightful view from Chiesa di San Bonaventura al Palatino

Note the Colosseum in the background

Monastery garden at Chiesa di San Bonaventura al Palatino

This little church makes a bit of money from weddings - what a fabulous place to be married!

Having a bit of fun

Oranges in Chiesa di San Bonaventura al Palatino's garden

 Down the hill again towards the Colosseum we ventured into the grounds of San Sebastiano al Palatino where autumn was at her best!

Splendour at San Sebastiano al Palatino

San Sebastiano al Palatino - it was open so we went in!

Agora at Roman Forum

From there we walked towards home via the various ruins along the Via dei Fori Imperiali - a history overload!!  Karl veered off to go shopping whilst I walked home with Luke  and found our way without a map!!  We had walked about 16 kms or may be a bit more.  Luke is amazing the way he just keeps on going.    

Steps to.....?

Equestrian monument to Victor Emmanuel II

Then, after a bit of a rest, it was school!  Afternoon school worked quite well and the evening went smoothly!  The early darkness helps the evening "program" more than the very long summer evenings we had a few months ago.