Wednesday, 18 November 2015

18 November 2015 - A pyramid and a graveyard in Rome

Tim and I enjoyed a brisk morning walk to the river and back before starting school for the day, through the street market where they are even selling wild strawberries in small punnets!  I was reminded of home, where we'll be all too soon, as we have loads of wild strawberries growing in rough gravel beside our driveway at home and they seem to fruit most of the year except in the very middle of summer.  They are delicious but I couldn't imagine growing them for commercial purposes as it would be so labour intensive.
 
We happened to walk past the local Tribunal building where there was quite a milling crowd.  Tim and I joked that most of the hearings would be for parking fines!  The parking is SO random here!  It even led to a "groan" Mummy joke: "Why was the Smart car angry?" "Because it was parked on a cross walk!"  Definitely a Rome-centric joke!  The parking still astounds us.

After school and lunch we ventured back to Piramide to see the pyramid there.  It is right across the road from the station and incorporated into the Aurelian Walls.  The Pyramid of Cestius was built in 18 BC to 12 BC as a tomb for Gaius Cestius.  It is 37 metres high, a stark white (recently cleaned) marble structure which looks out of place among the ruins!

The Pyramid of Cestius

The Aurelian Walls and Porta San Paolo with pyramid.
Cat sanctuary!
The Aurelian Walls were/are the city walls running 19 kms and built between 271 and 275 AD during the reign of Aurelian and Probus and enclosed the seven hills of Rome and the Field of Mars (Campus Martius).  The walls were 3.5 metres thick, 8 metres high and had a tower every 100 Roman feet (29.6 metres)!  In the 4th Century, the height of the walls was extended to 16 metres!  What a building project!

By incorporating the Pyramid of Cestius, time and money could be saved in wall construction!  It is estimated that about a sixth of the walls incorporated pre-existing structures so it was good to see an example of this!  Clever folk, those Romans!

Aurelian wall and guard tower

A bit of re-purposed masonry.
The Porta San Paolo, one of the southern city gates, or as it was previously called Porta Ostiensis, was at the beginning of the road leading from Rome to Ostia where we were yesterday!  The 4 th Century gate itself has two towers and looks like a castle.

As we were walking around trying to get a good angle of the pyramid we came across Suzie, a Canadian actress living in England who is a passionate Keats fan.  She was looking for the entrance to the Protestant cemetery so she could see Keats' grave.  We were keen enough to also look and check out a few graves and say hello to a few cats, too!

Cemetery cats

Keats' grave
Suzie, happy to have found Keats' grave.
John Keats was only 25 when he died of tuberculosis and his epitaph doesn't actually mention his name."This grave contains all that was mortal, of a young English poet, who on his death bed, in the bitterness of his heart, at the malicious power of his enemies, desired these words to be engraven on his tombstone: Here lies one whose name was writ in water."

We took a few photos for Suzie who was quite emotional about seeing Keats' grave.  She told us about her theatre in London: The Rose Theatre which is a Tudor theatre being excavated and restored.  It sounds very interesting.  Unfortunately, we have already done our London stint otherwise it would have been great to see around her theatre and maybe even see a play she is acting in! She did inspire us to look up Keats and a movie about him called Bright Star (2009).

Suzie's hand on Keats' grave

Keats' memorial

So stark against the brown stone ruins

At home, under a tree.

Baroque angel looking lovely.
We wandered about seeing lots of German and English names on the graves.  As far as cemeteries go, it was a peaceful and tasteful place with probably more cats than people roaming around.

Exiting the cemetery, we turned left and walked around the back of the walls and through one of the Aurelian arches.  Tim spotted a Conad supermarket where the prices were considerably cheaper than our local one.  Luke was delighted that I bought some more "space age" broccoli.  We then located the platform for our airport train when we leave Rome, so that was good as we like to be prepared before we drag our gear about.

Broccoli Romaneschi or space age broccoli as Luke calls it....more importantly, Luke eats it!

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