Wednesday, 4 November 2015

4 November 2015 - But there was so much to see around every corner.....

Annika and I had a quick morning walk to boost our banana and bread supply and we wandered through the little street market outside the Coop.  There seemed to be piles of new but "one off" clothes that people were riffling through hoping for a bargain as well as leather goods, shoes and nice looking produce.
Porcini mushrooms and clementines

Zucchini flowers and olives
Back for school until the afternoon when we set out in the warm sun to explore.  We did say to the kids that we would walk to the Trevi Fountain and then come back to Castel Sant' Angelo and home again.  What I didn't realise was how frustrated they would get when I suggested we take a few extra turns and see and a few more things on our way.  This caused beyond laughable amounts of  whinging and whining!  In the meantime, I was revelling in the history before our eyes and under our feet and remembering all the years ago when I was here.  Luke was excited to see ruins in between other buildings and enjoyed their random spottings.  


Piazza Cavour
I recalled my first visit to Rome with Denise (Webber/Hall) wandering around especially in the early mornings to all the piazze and historical sights before the tourists arrived!  However, it was winter, and cold and so much different to the current weather.  I am keen to make use of it to see the outdoor places as, to quote the Beatles: "Tomorrow may rain, so I'll follow the sun!"

Palace of Justice and Supreme Court
We are staying on the west side of the Tiber so we had to choose a bridge to go over, the Ponte Cavour, and found ourselves at Piazza Cavour in front of the Supreme Court of Italy (Corte di Cassazione and Palace of Justice.  What a building and what magnificent chunks of rock were used to build it!


Crossing on one bridge to see another bridge over the Tiber

Looking at our map I noticed we were very close to Piazza Navona and decided to take the opportunity to go there.  I remember it early on a cold and foggy December morning, empty of tourists, but today in the mid-afternoon it was full of portrait artists and scenery painters and tourists and there was not really much space to take a photo without getting some "randoms" in it!

Piazza Navona

"Stop! I've got no clothes on!"

Another Egyptian obelisk - they seem to have been pilfered or gifted by the dozen in Rome! - Piazza Navona

Typical signage

Spray painter painting the Colosseum - really quick and clever, but the fumes.....

At the far end of Piazza Navona

Well, the driver could still get in his car, even if the cars either side won't be able to move!
From here it was only a short walk to the Trevi Fountain but we got waylaid at some ruins and at the Spanish Steps, so tempers were fraying by the time we actually arrived at Trevi Fountain.  I would have thought that after all our time travelling, the kids would realise there is a world to see and that's what we are doing and who cares if we stop on the way?!

Luke loving the random ruins of Largo di Torre Argentina, part of the Field of Mars
The ruins, Largo di Torre Argentina, are part of Campus Martius or the Field of Mars which extended for about 2 square kms and included the Pantheon. This area was dedicated to the god Mars.  I am always amazed at how deep the ruins are: in this case about 5 metres below the current street level.

Today the ruins of Temples A,B,C and D (originally named as such) have been rebuilt and then ruined over the centuries since before Christ but the lay out of the original Field of Mars remains.  Some cannot be excavated as they  have buildings over them!  We were musing to Luke who said that he wanted to see all the ruins in Rome, that many are not yet discovered as buildings are already on top of them!
It is also a stray cat refuge!

Keeping an eye on possible fodder!

Then we turned right and WOW!, there was the National Monument to Vittorio Emanuele II, grand and white and an "eye sore" according to the Italians and we just had to go there. The Italians reckon the white monument dominates the area and so the old brown buildings and ruins are less obvious.  We liked it because we are in Rome and it was a lovely day and we were excited! We could even see the Colosseum and Roman Forum from this site.  We were not permitted into the monument as it was being closed for a ceremony.  I wanted to wait around for the ceremony but more "guests" kept arriving and we moved on.

The National Monument to Vittorio Emanuele II

Looking proud to be part of the Artillery - there are lots of uniformed people about in Rome

More random ruins - 5-6 th Century metallurgy workshop discovered when excavating for a new Metro line.
The Trevi Fountain was very busy today as it has only just reopened after extensive refurbishment.  The newly cleaned fountain was indeed splendid and the water a lovely aquamarine.  We were not permitted any closer so couldn't sit on the fountain edge as I remembered! It is the largest Baroque fountain in Rome and it looks as if the legend held true for me that if you toss a coin in the Trevi Fountain, you'll come back to Rome! (I did throw a lira or so into its water some years ago!)

The Trevi Fountain

Getting ready to throw their money in the Trevi Fountain!

I do love the street signs!

Piazza della Minerva - yet another Egyptian obelisk, 5.47 m high and the elephant base by Bernini!



The Pantheon - there has been a building on this site since 12 BC - not much remains of the original.  from the 7th Century, it has been a place of Christian worship.


The Pantheon also known as Basilica Santa Maria ad Martyres


Looking up to the very high dome!

Obligatory and beautiful marble statue

Looking out to the Piazza della Rotonda trough the Pantheon's enormous Corinthian columns

Piazza della Rotonda and Fontana del Pantheon 

Outside of the Pantheon is the Piazza della Rotonda where there is yet another fountain and Egyptian obelisk! The fountain itself was constructed in 1575 and the obelisk added later in 1711.  The fountains of Rome were supplied with water by eleven aqueducts which brought clean drinking water to Rome.  There are still numerous public fountains which continually pour out clean drinking water.  And as for the obelisks, there are 8 Egyptian obelisks taken from Egypt after the Roman Conquest and 5 Roman copies so no wonder we are noticing obelisks everywhere!

Looking to the Pantheon - the inscription is thought to be from 27 BC - 14 BC when Marcus Agrippa commissioned its building - but the inscription wasn't originally in its current place.

More smart uniforms - I can't imagine Aussie soldiers wearing these.

Looking over the Tiber - at about 4.15 PM, light already low
Time to head in a homeward direction!  We went via Castel Sant' Angelo.  Annika whowas tired and Karl who was going shopping chose not to go into the whole complex.  Given that it was 4.30 PM at this stage, the crowds had gone, there was no line for tickets and we had a ball.  The sun was setting over the Rome and the Vatican and we had a sensational view from the tower!

Castel Sant'Angleo

Angel on Ponte Sant'Angelo

Looking to St Peter's Basilica

Ponte Sant'Angelo

Inside the fort walking past the Roman walls - a lovely eerie light
The Castel Sant'Angelo, also known as Hadrian's Tomb was built between 134 and 139 AD on the banks of the Tiber.  The ashes of Hadrian and his wife, Sabina were placed here in 138 AD.  It was named Castel Sant'Angelo according to the legend that the Archangel Michael appeared on top of the mausoleum as a sign of the end of the plague in 590 AD. St Michael sits on top of the castle now and looked most regal in the fading light.  The building was converted to papal living quarters and was also at one time a prison.  We really loved wandering around with minimal crowd in the evening light.

Ceiling frescoes in the 14th Century area converted to a castle by Pope Nicholas III

Bits of history in Latin - some of which we can sort of decipher!

The Italians love their arches as we discovered in Bologna!


Pope Paul III

Treasury room which was also a prison - quite impenetrable!

St Peter's - framed!

Luke talking to a friendly but rather large gull!

The daylightt fades and the lights come on - so very pretty

Handstand!

Archangel Michael


All hands on St Peter's!

Aah!!

Luke wondered if this guy had been in the French Revolution and lost his head!! - not many 7 year olds would ask that sort of question!!

Down in the base of the castle

Love a bit of old graffiti!

Subterranean entrance to the Mausoleum - huge enough for chariots - built in 176 AD!!  It was a long winding, sloping tunnel.


Acqua Potable - from a pretty ancient looking fountain.
I had a lovely walk home with Tim and Luke, first by the little market along the Tiber and then wending our way through the streets of Rome knowing that if the Vatican was behind us we where in the general direction of home!  It was completely dark and streets look different in the dark but we eventually spotted the "coloured" modern apartments near to our place and knew we where close to home. Annika had already started cooking dinner so that was nice!  We feel at home here already!









2 comments:

  1. Magnificent! So much to see at every turn :)

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    Replies
    1. Rome is so lovely. Some day, I hope the kids will b able to reflect on their time away and really enjoy the memories! Every time a teacher mentions a bit of history, they'll have their own personal take on it!

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