17 November 2015 - Ostia Antica

 Our host had told us about Ostia Antica and that it would only cost us 1.50 Euro each to travel there on two metro trains and another train - what a bargain for a day trip!  On investigation she was right and I was keen to go to Ostia, the ancient port city possibly dating from 7th century BC.

After morning school and gathering the makings of lunch we took Metro lines B and then A to Piramide.  All seemed to be going well with our 3rd train of the journey when it stopped at the station before the one we wanted and we were all told the train terminated there!  We were in the outer suburbs of Rome which really did not look salubrious.  In fact much of the journey on the train had been past rather decrepit, poorly maintained looking housing estates and the odd gypsy caravan camp.  It was like being back in suburban Istanbul.  From inquiries we worked out we needed to take a bus to get to Ostia Antica which was probably 4 kms or more further and YES! we made it to the entrance of the ancient city!  For 8 Euros for adults and free for children under 18, it was AMAZING!

Given that we have been to many Roman ruins on our journey we could compare this port city to Ephesus in Turkey, which was also extensive but better maintained and made of solid marble. The style of building here in Italy, with a veneer of marble, lent itself to pilfering. 

Ostia, so named as it means "mouth" of the river is no no longer a coastal port as the advancement of the coastline means that the coast is now 3 kms away, like in Ephesus. Further, big floods of the Tiber River in 1557 changed its course.  Originally built as a maritime defence and colony, it became a commercial hub and ships loaded their cargo onto river barges which then transported the goods to Rome, 35 kms away.

It is a big city to walk around, especially when it is walking on big old stone roads which is quite hard going.

We entered near the necropolis - the artistic brick work was stunning.

A lovely design

Arches, big and small, strong and standing the test of time.

It must have been a splendid place - care to detail and decor

Like an unsolved jigsaw, pieces are re-assembled - what a task!

It is a huge city to walk around and we didn't see all of it or the museum as it was just too much to take in!  There were so many nooks and crannies and streets and arches and buildings to explore that it was easy to lose each other temporarily.

Poor Vittoria lost her head!

We did read a sign which told us how difficult it is to maintain such a site because of many factors.  Many of the floor mosaics were exposed and we could just walk over them which I thought was extraordinary.  2000 year old mosaics, cut and pieced and laid by hand and today, I can still walk on them!  It is hard to drink that in! One could take a guess and think that all the grassy areas in the buildings are hiding mosaics as well.  The ones in the exposed areas soon get covered with leaves and grime and the seasons come and go.  Maintenance would be enormous.  Somewhere like Ephesus gets bus loads of tourists but Ostia Antica doesn't hold the same intrigue and clearly there a fewer visitors and less funding for maintenance and repair.  Italy is so full of ruins and excavations are so common that it would be impossible to fund restoration projects for each site.

Intact mosaics - everywhere...and I suspect there's more under the grass and weeds!

He kept his head!

It was a peaceful and lovely spot for a day trip - wildflowers and splashes of autumn colours and once again perfect 20 C weather for wandering equaled a good idea for the day's activity.  The kids enjoyed it for the reason they were relatively unshackled, but respectful, and I loved it because I just did!!

Wildflowers cheerfully inhabit the site

Many of the road signs are still there.

The kids LOVED exploring

Initially we weren't sure what were windows or doors or just holes but we enjoyed going in and out and over and under.

Maybe a food storage area.

In and out of houses

More tiles - at the terme - baths

Streets, as they were...

Luke holding up the crumbling wall and Tim walking on his hands to help!

The streets for all the corporations - it was a thriving economy!

At the front of each "office"was a mosaic indicating their business!

These mosaics were quite clean and easy to see.

Cooking pots for sale?

Maritime authority?

The Temple di Cerere

The theatre

Panorama

Theatre props!

I think, by looking at the good order that the theatre was in, that it is used still for plays, etc.  The acoustics are certainly good and Luke tried them out!  Fortunately, there were very few others visiting where we were.  Karl said that there was a steady stream of people but they must have been spread out as we didn't notice them while we were wondering around.

Stage entrance

Looking down to the theatre stage, temple and avenue of corporations

Remains of stucchi - animals and plants on roof of arch

Another temple

Boys discussing the marble floor!

All the lovely marble flooring was also just exposed to the elements but I suppose it is hardy material!  Someone, possibly Tim's age, would have cut and laid the stone pieces.  It was like a lovely patchwork quilt!

Wash basins?

All the pock marks indicate that the marble was taken and used elsewhere.

So much, so well preserved.

Luke just had to go to the top of the stairs!

Amazing that these stairs are still stable.

Domus della fortuna Annonaria - a lovely courtyard

My favourite statues!

Most of the marble from the walls has been taken for re-use over the centuries - even parts of the Basilica of St Peter is made from "re-purposed" marble.

Impressive arches

As Annika said, she was mentally tired after seeing so much amazing construction.  It wasn't difficult to imagine a flourishing city in Ostia.

Another huge temple

A Roman beauty

Dragon or griffin  - they seem ageless!

Another handsome Roman!

Cats and ruins go together!

I am not sure what there pots were used for, but clearly they were assembled for a reason.

So much remains which has no specific place in a site like this!

The little market

The shops in the Little Market.

Just a taste as to how the buildings were adorned in the past.

Huge windows which would have no glass, I suppose, may be only wooden shutters.

Window to the world.

In the sewers and drains - lots of little alcoves like this possibly used for heating water.

Up from the sewers.

Looking down...cheeky monkey!

From the sewers looking up.

The main street.

A toilet!

Recumbent cutie.

Sewer rat!

We spent over 2 hours in the ancient city before deciding to head back.  We thought we'd give the train a chance and found our way to the station and pretty much got the train straight away back to Rome!  The sun was already low in the sky and it was completely dark when we got back home at about 5 PM.  Definitely worth a visit!