Tuesday, 10 November 2015

10 November 2015 - More rambling around Rome

Annika has laid low for most of the day with a cold.  I am so glad that she has the option to just rest rather than having to be out and about.  The evening air is fresh so she did enjoy a walk around the block after dinner rather than the long walk the rest of us went on earlier.

Can you see the street gymnast half way up the wall!  Huge retaining walls by the Tiber.  We presume it floods otherwise this space is so underutilized.
We walked by the river, where few seem to venture.  The west side of the Tiber has a bike path and walking path whereas the other side looks derelict.  Whilst there is a fair amount of rubbish and graffiti about, and I wouldn't walk on the path in the dark, this side of the river has so much potential.  When I think of the Seine and the lifeblood of Paris that it is where many walk, run, play and enjoy a festive atmosphere, this seemed to be a missed opportunity.  However, the Tiber does flood and only 3 years ago, at this time of year, there were tremendous storms and floods and some of the bridges were closed.  When you consider the heights of the retaining walls and the width of the river already, the thought of a flood is scary, very scary!



Mausoleum of Augustus.


We could see this structure on our map but with no label and were curious.  The Mausoleum of Augustus, no longer open to the public due to looting (over many years), was once covered in marble and is on the northern side of the Field of Mars.  It was built in 28 BC by Emperor Augustus and had two granite obelisks, one of which we saw at the Quirinal Fountain we saw later in the day.  The other obelisk is now at Piazza dell'Esquilino.  The completed mausoleum was 90 metres in diameter and 42 metres high.  Now, surrounded by a fence and overgrown with weeds, we couldn't find a sign to explain what it was and yet it should not be forgotten!

St Ambrosia with a gull on his head.
Close by is the magnificent Church of  St Ambrosia and St Charlies with its false stuccos and high ceilings and paintings.  It was my one church of the day (the kids groan when I want to look in "just one more church!) and very Italian and very ornate.  The money invested in these churches is phenomenal.  Despite all the grandeur, they do provide quiet sanctuaries away from the hustle and bustle.


Interior of the Church of St Ambrosia and St Charles

This painting, surrounded by colour and ornateness, stood out as humble and beautiful.

It seems that what I previously thought was the Spanish Steps is actually a monument which goes by a few different names, one being Monumento Nazionale a Vittorio Emanuele II after Vittorio Emanuele II who was the first king of unified Italy.  The Italians don't like it especially as it is stark white and stands out at 70 metres height amongst all the brown buildings and ruins.  Today we actually went to the Spanish Steps which are in Piazza del Spagna but unfortunately under renovation at the moment!

Piazza del Spagna and the Spanish Steps

Piazza del Spagna and Prada
Flanking the steps are two rampas (rampe) which provide alternate steps to the top!  Piazza del Spagna seems to be a high fashion area with Gucci, Versace, Prada and other designer labels dotted everywhere.  Just down from Piazza del Spagna is Piazza Mignanelli and the Column of the Immaculate Conception.  Rome is well designed with piazze surprising us often and providing a place to stop and sit.




In Paris, the Eiffel Tower was our landmark, in Rome is it the Basilica of St Peter.

The Column of the Immaculate Conception.

Walking by, looking up, noticing loveliness!
We headed towards what we thought was the Villa Borghese gardens but it turned out we were a bit off course and were in a small park with a statue (new) commemorating 200 years of the Carabinieri, the military police, with the inscription of their motto: Nei Secoli Fedele (Faithful throughout the centuries). 
Nei secoli fedele-
We then realised where we were: near the Trevi Fountain!  We were on top of Quirinal Hill and outside the Quirinal Palace where the president lives so no wonder there were guards at the front!  We did note yet another Egyptian obelisk in the middle of Piazza del Quirinale.  The palace was formerly the king's residence and prior to that, a residence of the Pope.

Piazza del Quirinale - the obelisk was taken from Egypt and then taken the Mausoleum of Augustus (which were saw earlier in the day) before it came to rest on Quirinal Hill!

Palazzo Quirinale on Quirinal Hill, one of the seven hills of Rome.
Down to the Trevi Fountain where today we could access the actual fountain and touch the water today unlike the other day when it was fenced off having just reopened after renovations!  Tim and Luke got a bit adventurous towards the rear of the fountain where they thought they'd like to climb and were told off before I could take a photo!

The Trevi Fountain

We could touch the water this time!

We might even come back one day!
The other highlight heading home was a lovely sunset over Ponte Umberto I with thousands of small twittering birds flying en masse in the dusky air presumably targetting insects.  We have noticed them before and initially thought they were swarms of insects!

Swarms of birds swirling and swooping in flocks - hard to capture on a photo. it seems to be a regular occurrence.

From Ponte Umberto I at dusk.

We watched a bit more of Kevin McCloud's Grand Tour when he was in Florence and then Rome. It was exciting to see places he was highlighting that we'd been to and learning a few more facts!  The window at the top of the Pantheon's dome is 9 metres in diameter - now that is incredible!

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