19 November 2015 - The Vatican Museums: Wow!

Possibly top of the "Must Do" list for visitors to Rome are the Vatican Museums.  I did go to the Sistine Chapel in 1985 but have only vague memories of it and I was keen to show the kids arguably the most stunning and famous ceiling in the world.  I was very excited to be heading back there, especially now as I had done a bit more reading and research on the artwork we could expect to see.

A fun beginning to our walk - this little florist's van looked like a parade float.  The two guys inside were happy to smile for the photo!  The vehicles of Rome continue to amuse me!

Anticipating crowds, and politely declining umpteen guides en route, we were at the gate just after opening (9AM) to sail through without waiting.  There were organised tour groups and the place was far from empty but certainly not as crowded as I'd been led to believe.  Maybe pleasant sunny Autumnal November isn't a popular time to visit Rome or maybe tourists are fearful to visit such sites because of the recent run of terrorist attacks.  Whatever the reason, today was perfect for us!

The Vatican museums are vast, founded by Pope Julius II in 16th Century.  This most amazing collection of artwork has been collected by popes and includes many Renaissance masterpieces.

We decided to take the long route, as opposed to the short route, to the Sistine Chapel  and what I didn't recall, and it may well have been different in 1985, was the long and amazing walk through corridors and halls of the most stunning paintings even before you reach the Sistine Chapel.  It is one of those places where I found myself "Wow-ing" all the time like an excited kid at a theme park, wanting to take everything in but having trouble just enjoying one thing before being distracted by the next! We managed to eavesdrop in on a few English guided tours as well as read the information provided!  Luke was really engaged and very observant for most of the time which was delightful so we could all enjoy the visual feast before us!

Sala della Biga -  a collection of ancient statues depicting athletes

Urn depicting a feast of porcine nature from a villa.

2nd Century  AD from a villa in Numisia Procula

The statues and ancient relics at eye level were stunning and then looking up, there was a whole new whole of detailed frescoes that cannot be rushed past.

This series of frescoes with ancient Rome in black and white in the background and life like figures in the foreground which really jump out at the viewer had us all spellbound.  Luke busily pointed out the Colosseum and other features he recognised. Despite my trawling through Google Images, I did not manage to find the artists who painted this series.

Another fresco in the same series.

And then there was the floor - look up, look down - lapis lazuli and other stunning rich stones and marble.  at this stage we were about 10 minutes into our time at the museums and already our senses were swimming!

Another cornice fresco

"His armour is so shiny" according to Luke and so it was!

Then the walls changed to huge Belgian tapestries as we entered the Galleria degli Arazzi

But never forgetting to look up, the magnificent ceilings continued!

A panorama trying to do justice to the ceiling!

The Gallery of Maps - such detail without the help of modern mapping equipment, 16th century

The  apartment of San Pio V, 16th Century

A suit of armour - what a relief!

 

Sala dell'Immacolata, commissioned work by Podesti following the proclamation of the dogma of the Immaculate Conception by Pope Pius IX

Ceiling frescoes

As the kids said, the stairs looked so real that it looked like you could walk up them!

Even before we had spotted the first Raphael fresco, the stunning painting and skill to make the paintings come to life in 3D  was playing tricks with our eyes.  And to trick us further, sometimes, there were stucco pieces actually sticking out!  The Papal apartments are massive and wonderful and SO ornate.  There was a magnificent corridor of frescoed ceilings and walls and statues but I cannot determine the artist for these works. Following this is the Gallery of Maps which has 40 maps of regions of Italy and was commissioned in 1580 by Pope Gregory XIII and painted by Ignazio Danti.

Then there are the 4 Raphael Rooms (Stanze di Raffaello)  which were painted by Raphael and some colleagues and commissioned by Pope Julius II: The Hall of Constantine, The Room of Heliodorus, the Room of the Signature and the Room of the Fire in the Borgo.  These rooms are breath taking to say the least!

Sala di Costanino - one of the Raphael rooms

 The richness of Raphael's colours has the effect of literally forcing you to sit down to take it all in.  There are seats in most of the rooms to do so.  It is also a good chance to quietly absorb the information you hear tour guides giving their groups!

The Battle of Constantine against Maxentius - Constantine was first Christian emperor to officially recognize the Christianity, allowing freedom of worship. 

Stanza di Eliodoro - ceiling

Expulsion of Heliodoros from the temple

The liberation of St Peter

Looking like actual reliefs, these are only frescoes!

A bit of help never goes astray!

 Room of Signatures, originally used as a library which I would find really distracting as there is so much to see rather than read!  I think I spend my time day dreaming over patchwork designs!  Luke, as a child, can be permitted to enjoy the patterns at close range, but as I am an adult, I had to restrain myself!

The floor mosaics, are much closer to Luke than we adults but he drew our attention to the intricate designs.  I feel inspired to get back to my patchwork as a record of the wonderful patterns...well it will be added to my LONG to do list!

Crossed keys, a sign of the papacy.

Patchwork ideas!

This design wouldn't be too hard to replicate in fabric.

Nor would this one!

Dispute over the Blessed sacrament

 The last Raphael room is the Room of the Fire in the Borgo.  We had to catch our breath here and still there was more and we were nowhere near to the Sistine Chapel!

Four tondos: Creator enthroned among the angels, Christ the Judge, Christ tempted by the Devil and Christ between Mercy and Justice

Luke assisting with the fire: Fire in the Borgo - note: woman passing down baby and nude man hanging off the wall in anguish - a story in itself.

Dispute over the Blessed sacrament

 Through a few more little rooms and chapels to be confronted with Sala Matisse dedicated to work by Henri Matisse - what a contrast to the Renaissance colours, almost a shock but still beautiful!

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Virgin and Child - Henri Matisse

The Tree of Life - Henri Matisse

Moving through the contemporary art collections.

We were wondering if we'd ever get to the Sistine Chapel at this stage and then we went through some tapestries, then some Modern Art (Matisse and others) and finally to the Sistine Chapel.  There was quite a crowd but we eventually got seats and sat down to admire the wonderful works of Michelangelo and others.  Luke is pretty knowledgeable about bible stories so he was quickly recognising various scenes above us.  We were glad Tim had worn long trousers as he quite possibly

would not have been permitted in the Vatican Museums if he had been wearing shorts.  No photography or loud voices allowed in the Sistine Chapel.  

 

Michelangelo's Creation of Adam

Sistine Chapel ceiling - a photo from a postcard as photos are not permitted there.

 After this, there are the halls of beautiful cupboards and frescoes and artifacts and so it went on!  We were all weary and needed a break and some morning snacks in the lovely sunshine, on a park bench, looking at a fountain in the Vatican Gardens.

Ah! An open window for some fresh air!  All the old galleries are climate controlled but quite stuffy after a while.

 Finally we emerged into the Sala dei Papiri which housed many finds from ancient sites: oil lamps, pottery, coins, jewellery and items which would normally stop to look at.  Instead, looking at the painted cupboards and frescoed ceilings as we strolled along was all we could take in!  Fresh air and sunshine was what we all needed!

Cupboards - all beautiful, many lined the corridor

Different scenes on the many cupboards

Above the doorways were scenes of the Vatican and Rome

A stained glass panel, lit perfectly by the outside light.

Rather lovely 19th century scene of the Vatican and St Peter's Basilica

Descending to the exit!

Medicine in the form of fresh air and sunshine! Ah!...and morning snack, too.

Running off a bit of pent up energy.

All feeling a little silly!!

Girls' selfie!

I was quite content to sit - must be showing my age.

Another outdoor spot with St Peter's in the background.

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 We then moved into the Pinoteca - art gallery.  The art gallery houses many frescoes and paintings which have been rescued from churches around Rome and Italy so that they can be preserved and enjoyed.  As the funding for churches wanes, it is heartening to know that these beautiful works of art will be able to be enjoyed and cared for.

The kids kindly obliged me by staying a tiny bit (at least another hour!) longer so we could see the Pinoteca (Art Gallery) and also a loggia of statues, many from ancient times.  There were several other museums which were closed and we were tired enough!  We did find another courtyard to sit in and check out old and newer statues and sculptures including the "Sphere within a Sphere" by Arnaldo Pomodoro (Arnold Tomato!)

Only a cast this time!! Michelangelo's Pieta...still as lovely as the real thing...which we have seen...just saying!

Last judgement

Group of angels, musicians, cherubs and apostles from the apse of Basilica of SS Apostoli in Rome (1474)

I loved these little angels!

Very lovely!

Raffaello Stanzio (Raphael) - Madonna de Monteluce

Michelangelo Merisi (Caravaggio) - The Entombment

Guido Reni - Matthew and the Angel

Wenzel Peter - Adam and Eve in the Garden of Eden

Another corridor leading to another outdoor area.

Fontana della Pigna

The lions of Nectanebo (360 BC) with pharaohic shadows!

Sphere in a sphere by Arnaldo Pomodoro

Not permitted on grass so hand stand on the cobblestones - ow!

And the halls go on and on....

Hall of statues

Emperor Tiberius and his dirty toe nails!  How did they attend to toe nails in the ancient times?

A goddess breast feeding a baby - back in ancient Rome

A game of statues is always fun!

This guy needed a haircut and beard trim!

 Tim and Annika then walked home while Luke and I stayed to look at some boats he had spotted on the way in.  We descended the double helix spiral ramp, designed by Guiseppe Momo in 1932, to the exit which a treat to finish our time in the Vatican Museums.  We bought 20 postcards for 1 Euro on the way out from one of the many postcard sellers.

Fabulous double helix exit!

What a day!  I was so tired!  In fact, overwhelmed! It is always better to be a bit overwhelmed than to be underwhelmed!  We called in at our favourite subterranean bakery on the way home for some "energising" delights.

One of our bathroom light switches fell into the wall so I emailed our host, Simonetta, and she and her husband were here on their motorbike before we knew it, to fix it, which they did!  How's that for service!