Monday, 30 November 2015

30 November 2015 - I couldn't think of a better way to spend our last day in Italy!

Our mission for the last day in Rome was to revisit our favourite spots, pack up as much as possible and dispose of our Brother printer which we bought in Germany.

Printer for sale...although now it has a good home!
The language barrier was the biggest stumbling block to selling our printer and although everyone we asked was helpful, they seemed to think we wanted to buy a printer or buy some toner.  Not necessarily with any malicious intent, we were sent on a merry old wild goose chase with the odd glimmer of hope thrown in but to no avail.  Tim gallantly carried the bulky machine from shop to shop and eventually back home.  We did have a spot of luck as we passed a street market selling scarves and shirts and Annika and I scored quite well at bargain prices but we still had the printer to dispose of!  At this stage we decided that some morning bakery treats were in order on our last day here and the boys got king doughnuts each.

Plan B was to give the printer to Rome Baptist Church which meant lugging it there and avoiding two huge deposits of dog poo we had noticed yesterday which had been stepped in by some poor soul (sole!).  In the end, we did take the printer to RBC where it was received gratefully and indeed was just what was needed by their newest staff member!  We were so glad to have been able to bless the folk there and really should have gone straight there without the agony of the morning!

On pack up day, when Lego hasn't been played with for a week or so, the creations start!  The Lego, too, is now packed!

Pillar near Cavour Bridge: "Gentle hands", indicate the height reached by the floods of the Tiber, dated and with name of the reigning pope.  Wow! we'd heard about the floods!!

Looking good against the blue sky!

The church facade is the frigidarium of the Baths of Diocletian and certainly looked ancient although the interior was commenced in 16th Century.
From Piazza di San Lorenzo, we walked to Termini via Piazze Barberini and Republicca to see what remains of the Servian Wall.  This wall is up to 6 centuries older than the Aurelian Wall and was built out of tufa under the Roman king Servius Tullius. There aren't many examples remaining of this wall and we couldn't actually touch it but we saw it none-the-less.   It was on our list of things to see!  At this point Tim was "blessed" by a passing pigeon, well aimed at his hand and we had sufficient tissues and hand sanitiser with us to clean him up well.  I was glad it wasn't on his clothes as if I do any more washing on our last day, it wouldn't be dry in time!

Yes! the Servian Wall!
Next on the list was the Arch of Titus which was just inside the Roman Forum but can be seen from the outside. We walked down via Cavour, Luke skipping along with Tim happily and us recalling all the now familiar landmarks.  After being here for a month, we feel like residents "living" here as opposed to visitors.  Karl particularly wanted to see "The Spoils of Jerusalem" on the arch depicting spoils taken from the temple in Jerusalem but unfortunately this particular relief was on the south column which was the one we couldn't see!  We certainly didn't waste our time as it was another sensational clear autumn day and walking around Rome is really wonderful. 

There are but two things which spoil the experience of walking through Rome: dog poo and smokers - DISGUSTING!  The traffic is mad and the parking mind-blowing but that's all part of the amusement, but dog poo and cigarettes - no thanks!

Past the Altare della Patria where we no longer hesitate to step out into traffic to cross the road.  Those who hesitate, wait!  You have to march forward with purpose and the vehicles will stop for you!
 
Luke and cat!
Luke and I called into the Cat Sanctuary to say "Ciao" to the cats there.  Lots of the cats were perusing the ruins for a spot in the sun but there were plenty who welcomed a pat.  According to Simonetta, our host, there used to be cats everywhere in Rome not so long ago.  Obviously there has been a campaign to clean up the streets of cats (but not dog poo).  In Turkey they are everywhere and seem to be community cats which everybody cares for.  Stray dogs are a different matter - they are not stray in Rome, it is just that the owners don't clean up after their "poo"-ches.


The Nativity Scene in St Peter's Square - not yet lit up, so sneaky preview!

Bathed by light in St Peter's Square.
We trotted home via Piazza Navona.  Being Monday, the artists weren't there and it all seemed quiet and the cold  afternoon shadows had already cooled the square.  Back home for the grand pack up.  It is sort of cathartic to be able to throw things away and completely empty the pantry and fridge each time we move.

After our dinner of "remains" we walked to the Vatican in hope of seeing Christmas lights.  Sadly, it seems that they are not turned on until 8 December!  We could see a life size Nativity scene being erected which would be amazing to see but we won't be here.  I believe Christmas trees and decorations are already happening in Australia but as we have heard, Christmas here is much more about actually celebrating the real meaning of Christmas rather than celebrating commercialism.

Simonetta, our host, called in to say: "Arrivederci".  This has been a great accommodation and in a quiet part of town.  Airbnb, has done it again!

Sunday, 29 November 2015

29 November 2015 - Happy Birthday to me!

We all had a sleep in which was great after our tiring but most wonderful day yesterday.   As instructed, I had to stay in bed for birthday morning blessings!  Luke wandered into our singing one of his endearing spontaneous ditties which went something like: "I love you Mummy, you are the best, most adorable Mummy in the whole world...etc" and then I had my cup of tea and breakfast (humble porridge as per request!) in bed.  The kids made me lovely cards and I opened my presents: A much needed new black cardigan (my old one is rather holey after a year of travel), a knitted wintry dress (which I tried on over jeans at a side of the road market) and a lovely pendant.  Annika took charge of meals and food for the day and it was perfect.  Everyone needs a daughter like her!

We trotted off in the perfect clear autumn sunshine to Rome Baptist Church for the last time while we are here.  It is such a wonderful, international fellowship that if I were to ever be back in Rome, I would head back there.  Luke, who was decidedly not going to be enjoying the morning, did willingly go up for the children's talk and participated and, joy of joys, volunteered that he'd go off to Sunday School by himself! Now, that was a great birthday gift!  The sermon was on materialism linked to the American celebration of Thanksgiving and then the Black Friday sales.  The pastor, David Hodgson, is from USA, but the congregation is a real mix. He did mention that there is much less commercialism around Christmas in Italy than in USA and I would say I also noticed the same.  Only in the last few days have we seen Christmas decorations and there certainly wasn't Christmas merchandise in shops from October like at home.  We had a great chat to Joseph, a physicist from Chennai, India who is working in Rome for 3 years.  He pretty much convinced us that a visit to Chennai was in order...and we could be tempted!!

Sunny morning in Rome!
The kids were pretty eager to get going after church as next part of the birthday celebrations was a visit to Giolitti's, the oldest ice cream parlour in Rome, established in 1890!  I remember this very classy and beautiful gelateria from my 1985 trip to Rome and the taste of the ice cream has been imprinted on my taste buds forever!  It was hard choosing two flavours each but we were all delighted with our choices.  I chose Vacanze Romane (Roman holiday) and Bailey's Irish Cream! (Tim chose Nougat and Caramel, Annika had White Chocolate and Baci and Luke chose Chocolate and Oreo - which he wore around his lips for the next hour!)

Giolitti's! First you buy your ticket, then you choose your ice cream!
When one enters Gioltti's Gelateria, it feels like the ice cream version of Willy Wonka's Chocolate Factory.  It is a classy sort of magical atmosphere and it all seems a bit too amazing to enter.  Our eyes were darting along the choices available wanting to choose THE right ones for this rare treat!  I am sure if any of the kids come back to Rome, they will visit Gioltti's!

Delicious!
The choices!!!

No complaints!

Generous helpings for 2.50 Euro each

These little tuk tuk style vans are common in Rome and often two adults and sometimes a dog squeeze into the cabin!  Having been in Asia, we got used to them, but in Europe they seem sort of out of place.

He was just calmly waiting for someone to pat him!
More little tuk tuks.
 We walked through the little lanes of Rome, wending our way to Piazza Navona where the sun was blessing the entire square.  It is so lovely.  The artists were out in force and there were some street musicians playing guitars.  We were mesmerised by the spray paint artist who we have watched before.  His creation of the Solar System was so amazing that Luke decided to spend his pocket money on this bit of art.  Well chosen, Luke.  It will be great to remember Rome and the day in Piazza Navona where we saw the artist.


Piazza Navona in the sun!

See what I mean about clear sky!

Yes, it is another obelisk!

Chocolate faced Luke with painting and artist in the background.

A little bit of Christmas: tasteful and uncluttered.
The long shadows of afternoon were slowly descending and the warmth of the sun disappeared and it was time to walk back across the Tiber and down the familiar path to our Rome home.

Annika, had planned my birthday menu with perfection and created: "Mamma Mia's Restaurant" and all I had to do was enjoy it all!
 
Birthday menu!
Head of the table with dinner and Italian flag!
 
I even had a little bit of wine...which might be why my nose is twitching this morning with sneezes unsneezed if you know what I mean!

A lovely cake from our subterranean bakery which Tim and Annika chose and bought.

Happy birthday to me!!
We were all full to bursting with delicious food - a great celebration.  Movie choice is always tricky with our crew but we settled to a cute Youtube cartoon movie of Madeline Lost in Paris which was a most endearing story.  Tim and Annika used to love the Madeline books and series and Annika still loved it.  Tim chose a different movie - fair enough!  So that's another birthday, another year, in fact another very memorable year!


Saturday, 28 November 2015

28 November 2015 - Pompei for the day!!

A day trip from Rome to Pompei was by far the best option for our visit.  Whilst an overnight trip is exciting, it is disruptive and sheer hard work.  A day trip knowing that we could come back to our warm, comfortable apartment with endless cups of tea to re-hydrate at the end of the day, was the sensible option.  It did mean quite a few hours on trains but especially on our out bound journey, the scenery of rocky mountains and villages was wonderful as was the shimmering water of the Gulf of Naples.  We had chosen the day with the best weather of the week - 12 C but clear and sunny.

Roma Termini to Napoli Centrale

Pompei!
From Roma Termini we took the regional train to Napoli Centrale where we got a little confused as our next train left from Napoli Piazza Garibaldi which is just a very short walk from Centrale but we had thought it was going to be a Metro ride!  We bumped into some other confused tourists, Alison and Shaun Smith from the Isle of Wight and somehow bumbled onto the correct platform, asked a Trenitalia driver and hopped on the Pompei train with minutes to spare!  No signage to indicate we were on the right train but Karl's trusty GPS seemed to indicate we were on the right train and track and indeed we were!  With 2 Million tourists per year, one would have thought that signage to Pompei might be a little clearer!



Looking down from the road with Mt Vesuvius in the background
We got off at Pompei Station, followed the signs on a circuitous route to the "Archeological Scavi" entrance and then realised that if we'd followed our intuition, it would have been quicker!  No queue in this out of season time which was good.  I asked for 2 adults and 3 children and the ticket man told me he only saw one child and 4 adults! I said we had ID for Tim and Annika, and then they were officially declared children (under 18) and didn't have to pay.  Our adult tickets were 13 Euros which was very reasonable for a full day of amazement! 

First stop: an amphitheatre
Pompei was devastated by the volcanic eruption of Mt Vesuvius in 79 AD.  An estimated 16,000 people perished.  As they were used to rumblings and minor earthquakes, many didn't take the warning signs seriously.  66 Hectares of Pompei to explore was fun, interesting and tiring!


Next stop:  The Bodies Exhibition
 Our first stop was an amphitheatre and exhibitions of bodies from Pompei which were contorted in various positions, some with exposed teeth and skulls and all magnificently preserved.  The kids were disappointed that we couldn't climb up the amphitheatre but there were two more theatres in Pompei which we could climb on.  Once again we reflected on the absolute privilege we've had along our way to explore many ruins and ancient sites unrestricted by ropes and rules and also how, in the future, those sites will also most likely be more controlled.  None-the-less, we did find a spot to perch and eat lunch and enjoy the sunny weather.

Body with skull showing.

Skull, teeth, exposed and preserved!
Contorted with agony?!



Tunnel under the amphitheatre

Old entrance to old amphitheatre.

Rocky roads with cart grooves
Then we set off up the bumpy rocky streets with their cart tracks worn/carved into the rocks and peeked in the houses and temples, public eateries and baths, shops and fori. Some of the frescoes are simply beautiful with rich colours and Roman figures.  The floor mosaics are also quite stunning in places.  What makes Pompei a different experience from other Roman ruins is that many of the buildings are largely intact and you can get a real glimpse into their daily life.  Having said this there was scaffolding everywhere and lots of restoration, maintenance and excavations going on.  Pompei gets the visitors and the money whereas Ostia Attica which was marvellous, doesn't attract the numbers of tourists and therefore doesn't receive the revenue.  I suppose the volcano adds to the intrigue of Pompei, especially as it is still an active volcano with the last major eruption in 1944.  When I looked at the time line of eruptions, it seems overdue for one!  The Italian government has an elaborate emergency plan in place for when the inevitable happens.  I'm glad we've had our trip to Pompei and made it safely back to Rome!  Over 600,000 people now live in the "red zone" and it would take 7 days to evacuate everyone...what would happen to tourists on the day...?!


Detailed walls

As Tim pointed out, each little groove is exact, all hand chiselled.

Lovely statue!

Courtyard of Casa della nave europa - a wealthy person's house


Thermopolium - fast food outlet!


Bird fresco!

Rich wall colours - frescoed



Mosaic of chaine dog in Casa di Paquius Proculus, a baker and his wife, middle class Pompei residents

Ferocious lion tripod for?

Quite an extensive house in its day.


More frescoes.

Some streets were narrower than others.

The new game of "stone hopping"!

So much to explore!
Luke particularly enjoyed playing shops in the ruins of the thermopolia, the cook shops, where "something hot is sold".  Pompei's answer to fast food or a communal kitchen where people could enjoy a hot meal.  I suppose they were like an ancient form of a Bain Marie! The wealthy would have had people to cook for them in their homes, so it is thought that these thermopolia were used by those who couldn't afford their own kitchen.  Some of the urns were also used for wine and olive oil.

Playing shops among the ruins.
 The deep indent in the road was because of the carriages. The big rock in the middle are used when they washed the streets or when its rainy and the streets are a bit flooded, the people used it as a stepping stone to cross the street. Our kids used them for acrobatics, jumps and handstands!  Maybe Pompei kids did similar!

Jumping for joy!

Catching a bit of sun!
I can't imagine a better activity for an old theatre!

Good spot for a handstand!

Theatre used for gladiators and others.
Finally, a theatre we could climb!


And there's Mt Vesuvius again - "framed"

Another use for road blocks.

The original Caesar stone!

The Forum
Me and my girl!



The Forum - Tempio di Giove

Checking out how well they were built!

Public leaning post: Edificio di Eumachia

Edificio di Eumachia - Great for a family shot!


No, they are clouds, not puffs of volcanic smoke!


 Eumachia in the veiled form of a priestess.

The day was so perfect for photos!

Another addition to the site!


Pots and amphora jars
This one, of all the bodies we saw, made the greatest impression.

Recently excavated


A child

Goat Street?

"Through the Arched window", today...."  Playschool quote from ABC Children's TV

Old meets new - electric wires in Pompei?!

Seal pose!
There were three main baths in Pompei and per chance we saw the least raunchy exhibit which was probably a good idea!  The Forum Baths were the smallest baths but had the classic lay out of the changing area, frigidarium (cold room), tepidarium (warm room ) and calidarium (hot bath) and exercise field and toilets.
 
At the Forum Baths

Lovely frescoes

Not sure what these guys represented but many of the baths were also brothels

Fantastic stucco

Rim of the brazier to heat the water in the tepidarium
 We followed the path, but couldn't do a circuit as the roads were blocked off with scaffolding and gates.  I really do appreciate so much maintenance needs to be done on such a site but there did seem to be an awful lot of gates!  Being Saturday, we saw few workers though.  

Tomb on Tomb Street - I suppose he was a sea faring fellow.

On the road of the tombs.

The Villa of Mysteries - very well preserved.

Very lovely indeed, the Villa of Mysteries

Love the 3D effect of the cornice work.

Wooden door well preserved by ash.

Long afternoon shadows!!
The House of the Faun, which we nearly missed, was well worth a look.  It was an impressive residence with wonderful mosaics and a little bronze statue of a faun. Apparently, this house was the inspiration for the song, 'House of Fun' by the British group, Madness!  The Alexander Mosaic (reproduction), depicting the battle between Alexander the Great and Darius III of Persia is so beautiful that it looks like a painting on the floor.  Much of the original artwork has been moved to the archaeological museum for safe keeping.


The House of the Faun - depicting the Battle of Issus in 333 BC between Alexander the Great and Darius III of Persia


Tired boy with "tired" (wheel) tracks!
Today, Mt Vesuvius was looking very innocent and beautiful as a backdrop to the photos of the ruins.  We started heading back to the exit at about 3PM when the shadows were long and the temperature was plummeting and it took us a full hour to retrace our steps and discover a whole Palestra Grande and Necropolis we hadn't seen on the way in.  No doubt there was more to see, but we had see so much and loved it all, so that was that.  We left the historic site, with no hint of volcanic eruption and we had all really loved it.  the kids all love this kind of open air museum with space to run and nooks and crannies to explore.

Palestra Grande

Necropolis
We walked down Pompei's streets to a piazza with the 1912 clock tower looking splendid against the sky.  We bought some disappointingly cool "hot" chips and croquettes before coming to rest at Maccas for an ice cream for the kids.  Oh  horror! They didn't do coffee, so I bought some takeaway, once again too cool and too sweet coffee to sustain us until Naples.  We caught the earlier train, which was so late that it departed 2 minutes before our scheduled train!  There was not much time to find a bite to eat and we found some sensational kebabs, hopped on the already quite crowded regional train to Rome and off we rattled.

Pompei town Clock tower - built from 1912
 The train was cold as ice for most of the journey until the heating was turned on about 30 minutes from Rome.  The toilet was "Indian" standard (i.e. awful) and we worked out that most of the time the toilets are used by people who want to smoke as smoking isn't permitted on the trains.  They take ages to finish their cigarettes and then the toilets stink.  Grrrr!  So very glad to get home to comfort!