23 October 2015 - More of Bologna

The big kids and I are enjoying our morning trot to the Ipermarket, past the Gypsy camp, Middle Eastern fruit stall and industrial zone to the huge Conad store for some more Italian food!  Today we bought a rosso radicchio which hopefully will taste like witlof (endive) for Karl and also some fresh pasta and tasty looking breakfast cereal and some other basics.  We can't find oatmeal anywhere so clearly there is no Scottish influence in this part of Italy.

Conad Ipermarket - Huge!

Simple Italian fare for lunch

School is quite demanding, particularly for Tim and Annika who are rapidly nearing the end of their academic years with all the stresses which accompany that.  They so want to do well and slot back into their "normal" school again.  I actually think they don't realise just how much they have learned on our year away but they may never be able to quantify their learning.  As for Luke, the structure of a classroom will both be good and frustrating for him.  Peer pressure is one advantage of classroom learning as are group teaching sessions and discussions.  As internal motivation only comes from within sometimes the external motivation of a teacher other than your mother would be wonderful!

Cathedral of San Pietro

 We left Tim and Annika at home doing their schoolwork and took the train back to Bologna Centrale and walked up to Piazza Maggiore stopping at the huge Cathedral of San Pietro.  The doors alone dwarf the average adult and the ceilings are 40 metres high!  There has been a church on that site since 1028 but it was destroyed by fire, rebuilt and consecrated in 1184.  In the crypt there are some fragments of the 12th Century edifices and by the entrance stand two stone lions carved from red Verona marble, now saddled with baptistery fonts, which were part of the portico in 1220.  The interior of the cathedral was renovated during the 16th and 17th centuries.  It is magnificent.  Dedicated to St Peter, the cathedral is actually the main cathedral and Bishop's seat in the city of Bologna.

Terracotta figures - Pieta

Altar and ceiling

The doors are massive! - A person is standing behind the information stand

We always look up1

12 th Century fragments in crypt

Surrounded by glittering mosaics.

Very detailed

Fading frescoes in Crypt.

Yet to be restored - a constant job no doubt.

Odd sort of creatures from 12th Century

Red Verona stone lion 1220

Blue skies above the red Bolognese buildings - very nice on the eyes!

Posing for the photo

 Onto Piazza Maggiore, which seemed to be the place to gather complete with some Gypsies, selfie stick sellers and lots of people just sitting and enjoying the sunny afternoon.  The tourist office is there and we went in for a map and some advice.  I feel good with a paper map in my hand!

Neptune's Fountain, Piazza Maggiore

Grand buildings everywhere

....and arches

Everything is ornate

Love the perspective

 Piazza Maggiore is surrounded by imposing buildings and has the centre piece of Neptune's fountain.  At one end is the very grand Basilica San Petronius.  To clarify, a basilica is any church to which the title of honour is given by the Pope whereas a cathedral serves as the central church of a diocese, and thus is the Bishop's seat. 

Basilica San Petronius - unfinished facade

Basilica San Petronius - one of 22 chapels

Fresco - possibly St Petronius

The workmanship and labour that went into this altar is beyond imagination

Stunning to the point of opulence

Two of the chapels - different families, differing taste, differing wealth

Cappella di San Antonio di Padova

Cappella delle Reliquie

Cappella di San Giacomo

Basilica San Petronius, dedicated to the patron saint of Bologna, St Petronius, bishop of Bologna in the fifth century, stands as an awe-inspiring structure which beckons one to step inside.   It is the fifteenth largest church in the world and although construction started in 1390, it's facade remains unfinished!  The interior comprises twenty two chapels, all different and all beautiful.  As we were wandering about, someone started playing organ music - Wow!  There are two great organs, from 1476 and 1596 which are still in good order and the breathy Baroque sounds echoed magnificently.  Bologna was a main centre of Baroque music.

Another fascinating feature in this old church was Cassini's Meridian Line which extends on an angle through the main part of the church and indicates the day of the year.  It is one of the world's largest astronomical instruments, dating back to 1655.

Under the arches to the West of Piazza Maggiore down a cafe street

Lovely light seeping through

Hand made pasta

Glace fruit

Being angelic

Narrow streets, old wooden arches, can just imagine scenes from the Black Plague here!

Luke was truly awed by these two great churches and was stunned into quiet whispers and questions which meant we could really enjoy our time there.

Not tired by these two churches, we walked on through the arches, porticos and piazze amazed at the architecture and that so much is well intact today.  We spent a bit of time at the "leaning tower" of Bologna and it's friend, the Asinelli Tower before wending our way back to the station via a few more churches!

One very leaning tower and the Asinelli Tower, the highest tower in Bologna

Having a bit of fun!

Karl toppling the tower

Luke pushing the tower over!

Luke said: "There's a different kind of old here" - outside of buildings, frescoes fading in the external environment.

Church of st James the Great (San Giacomo Maggiore)

Once again, beautiful detail - we happened upon the 5PM Mass beautifully sing by two priests

Church of San Giacomo Maggiore

 Bologna is certainly a very lovely spot to visit but it doesn't feature on many travel itineraries.  I am glad we have come to rest here!  I am glad we have managed to find some great accommodation, easily reached by public transport, very close to the city and yet quiet, spacious, safe and family friendly.

Cute little statue!