3 March 2015 - THIS is the reason I wanted to come to Turkey : Ephesus - and I wasn't disappointed!

We woke in our 100 year old hotel rooms with heavy condensation on the windows and pouring rain outside.  The rain was not on our schedule - thank you - as we had purposely chosen today because of good weather in last week's forecast.  We packed up anyway aware of the busy schedule ahead and having to travel back to Bodrum later.

Baresh, the owner of the hotel had an amazing breakfast waiting for us in the gazebo/outdoor dining area.  He was a lovely, gentle host with whom we enjoyed chatting.  He answered all our questions and solved some mysteries, too.  We now know why the Turkish houses, and also Greek houses are painted white and blue.  The white is lime and has an insecticide property which is why the houses and trees are painted with it.  It is an old tradition along with the blue trimmings which repel scorpions who thrive in the hot and humid summer conditions.  So, you learn something new every day....but that is not all we learned today....

Lovely Turkish breakfast at Amazon Antique Hotel

Ephesus is about 3 kms easy walk from Selcuk and passing by the ruins of The Temple of Artemis (another of the 7 wonders of the Ancient World) made walking the best option despite the drizzle.  All that remains standing of The Temple of Artemis is a single column but from the excavation site surrounding it, it is easy to see how big it was.  

Excavation site - Temple of Artemis

 The oldest findings at this site are pieces of Mycanean pottery from 14th Century BC.  A small temple used for pagan practices is thought to have preceded the huge temple, the construction of which began about 570 BC.  The original was burnt down in 356 BC and the newer temple erected.  It was also used for pagan practices.  It is thought that at a later stage, this temple was used as a church.

Karl dwarfed by the single column of the Temple of Artemis

Reflecting the magnitude

The layout - after recent rain,

All that remains

Reminded us of Australia - perfect climate for eucalypts

Ever since I visited Turkey in 1984, I have been keen to return and fueled by a fabulous sermon by Cheryl McCallum at One Community Church last year, I was more keen than ever to see Ephesus.  Today was the day!

VERY EXCITING!

As we approached the entrance we could see ruins after ruins in various states of excavation.  I was SO excited!  30 Lira for entry is great value considering what we were about to see!  Once again, glad to be here in cooler weather especially as all the streets after paved with marble and it would be blinding as well as crowded in the summer.

Very stable arch!

Armchair travellers?

Hand stand time!!!  Great Theatre

Steep ascent

Luke looking little in the huge theatre

The kids were excited, too, which makes it more enjoyable.  I think they liked the theatres the best as they cold project their voices across the ancient tiers and be heard easily.

We entered the Ephesus site from the less used entrance and wandered through some semi-excavated ruins.  It is the free standing arches that really impress me.  Still standing after centuries so we can confidently stand under them and walk on top of them!  We could see clear layouts of dwellings which have been partially covered by landfall. 

 

Top of Harbour Street

Walking towards the harbour

 

The water used to come up to the end of this street.

Harbour Street with its impressive columns did lead down to the harbour 2000 years ago but the sea is now 6-7 kms away!  At the top of Harbour Street is the Great Theatre, so much larger than the one we saw in Bodrum.  We entered via the actors' door, of course!!  As in everywhere else in Turkey, cats have called this place home and add an extra charm to it all.  We heard some rough looking toms yowling their opera to the masses at the base of the theatre.  It is an impressive three tiered structure first built in 3^rd - 1^st BC but rebuilt and added to and completed in 7^th Century AD.  The stage was used for Greek theatre as well as gladiatorial conquests.

Actor's entrance

 

Agora

There were very few other tourists sharing this amazing place with us.  As we followed the marble streets we were stunned by the many buildings that showed a well organised city.  The Tetragonos Agora (Commercial Market) was rebuilt after the big earthquake in 4^th Century.  You can see the planning as you walk along Marble Street.

Looking up at the library!

 

Gap between the walls for providing stable environment for books

Menorah

Handstand at the library

Entrance to the Celsus Library

Amazing facade - note Sophia, Arete, Epistome, Ennoia - the virtues of Celsus

BUT, the most breath taking moment was when we rounded the corner to see the MAGNIFICENT Celsus Library!  Words cannot explain the grandness.  The façade was restored in 1970’s but originated in 135 AD!  The 4 sisters of the virtue of Celsus: Sophia (wisdom), Arete (virtue), Epistome (knowledge) and Ennoia (intelligence) can be seen at the entrance.  We had fun trying to work out their names, carved in Greek, before we saw the translations!  There was a metre gap between the internal and external walls to maintain a constant environment for the books which is now an alleyway for cats!  We could clearly see the Greek inscriptions as well as a menorah, which indicated that at some time this library was visited by Jews. 

Epistome - knowledge

 

Arete - virtue

 

Ennoia (intelligence)

Sophia (wisdom)

We continued heading up the impressive marble Curetes Street past the Brothel and Alytarch’s Stoa with its mosaic floor.  The terraced houses have recently been discovered/excavated and are dwellings built into the hillside.  The hilly nature of this area was used well to build into which conferred good insulation to the dwellings – clever!  Now when we watch Kevin (Grand Designs) presenting an “innovative” earth house or similar, we marvel, but over the centuries the natural environment has often been used to advantage.

Up the slope, surprisingly not slippery on the marble despite the drizzling rain, to Heracles Gate, which was narrow and prevented wagon traffic. 

The Brothel..and peek holes?!

Nothing written on any signs about Christian influences at Ephesus but random crosses may indicate Christian presence

Another cross

Processional Way looking up.

Off to the left we wandered up the Processional Way on which celebrations to honour Artemis, the goddess of Ephesus were held. The processions which lasted for several days were held from the Temple of Artemis to Ephesus, quite possibly along the road we had walked to get to Ephesus.  It was a very pagan society.

Nymphaeum Traiani - fountain building - can you imagine the grandness?!

Varius bath house.

Mosaics...just out in the open!!

There was another smaller theatre, baths, more fountains and dwellings.  An absolute feast for the senses!!  Ephesus did not disappoint me!!!!

Heracles Gate

Procession up Processional Way!

 As we were walking along the pavements we occasionally saw crosses carved into the marble and an interesting 8 spoke wheel on which were carved Greek letters meaning  Jesus Christ Son of God.  This wheel, along with the fish sign, "Ichthus", were signs for Christians.  The Christians apparently used to draw half a fish in the sand and other Christians they encountered would know to draw the other half signifying they were also Christians.

The apostle Paul came to Ephesus in 51 AD on his third missionary tour.  Ephesus was a good place for spreading Christianity through Asia Minor. Paul taught here as mentioned in Acts 19 and 20. Ephesian pagans who had become Christians burned their magic books and, as more Ephesians became believers, Demetrius, a silversmith, started a riot in the theatre!  One of the theatres we just walked in!!! Bible stories and history indicate that the apostle John and Jesus' mother, Mary, were also in Ephesus. Paul later wrote to the Ephesian church from prison in Rome and also wrote to Timothy who was working with the church in Ephesus .

Hydrieon - Curetes Street

Perhaps taking a sacrificial lamb to the altar?

Actors' entrance to the smaller theatre

Small theatre - still impressive

Gus (!), the theatre cat

Still steep steps and amazing preservation

Miaow!

Luke loved the cats

Cat shelter

 Our last stop was the Church of St Mary which was the only obvious bit of Christian influence apart from random carvings of crosses seen along the way.  What we did find interesting here was a big baptismal font and lots of marble floor tiles on which the Greek inscriptions had been erased.  We are not sure why and could only guess some anti-Christian activity.

Church of St Mary

Inside the church

Script "erased" for some reason - not the only tile like this.

Baptismal font

We walked back to Selcuk passing the ancient stadium and returned to our fabulous kebab shop for lunch.  We booked our bus tickets for our return journey to Bodrum as well so we had a time frame.

Walking back to Selcuk

Orchards with Ayasuluk Castle in hinterground

Turkish tea!

 The sun came out!!!  It was time to explore the Basilica of St John and the Ayasuluk Castle. Up on the hill towering over Selcuk and gleaming in the sun we once again enjoyed the history!  The basilica is a cruciform structure with a cross shaped baptismal font on the middle.  It is a maze of little crypts and peeking into a cordoned off area we could see some ancient wall paintings. 

Basilica of St John

More wonderful ruins

Looking over Isabey Mosque

An amphora or two in amongst the marble pillars.

Baptistry

Mosaic floors still intact!

Looking to the hills

Looking back down the hill.

 Further up the hill is the castle.  Castles are always fun and always grand and this one did not disappoint.  Selcuk, once a powerful stronghold, 1000 years ago, was a perfect place nestled in the Anatolian hills and close to the sea.  Now with the sun shining and clear skies, we could appreciate countryside around us. Wow, wow and wow!  It has been a day of wows!!

Approaching Ayasuluk Castle

Panorama looking West

The fortress walls.

Panorama to the East

Ascending ...got to get to the top!!

Mosque within castle walls

Looking out from the cistern

We loved the way recycled columns were often built into walls!

Nice bit of recycling happening here...note marble carving re-used in wall construction.

We collected our bags from Baresh, who had kindly stored them for us for the day, and walked to the bus stop through the back streets.

Amazon Antique Hotel

Outside our little lovely hotel.

Luke and Charlie

Ice creams before we leave Selcuk.

Our journey was 4 ½ hours back to Bodrum on two buses, but we would all agree it was well worth the effort.  Back in dear old Bodrum, we shopped and walked up our hill to “home”.  Indeed, it did feel like home to be back here. Aaah!