14 March 2015 - Walk to the top of the Uchisar Castle

I woke quite early due to the heat in the cave and peeked outside.  It was just before 6 AM and hot air balloon trucks were trundling down the road.  Akiko, the helper here at Ishtar Cave Pension, said that the balloons were going up a bit later once the wind had died down.  It was a glorious bright sunny morning so I roused Karl and Tim who were semi awake and we were about to set out for a walk to Sunset Point to catch the balloons over the town.  At first glimpse we could see many balloons were still filling so I thought we had time to wake Annika and Luke to also catch the sight.

Balloonies over Cappadocia

Tim and Luke go for a closer look!

 We walked up the back streets to Sunset Point and stood catching our breath at the kaleidoscope of colourful balloons in the sky and those still taking off.  The fairy chimneys are no less impressive in the early morning light than they are at other times of day.  The only sound we could here was the occasional whoosh of flames and fire fuelling the balloons.  Although very chilly in the early morning, we relished the sight and could have stood there for ages.  Poor Annika was feeling unwell and was resting half way down the hill, enjoying the balloons, but not feeling up to the big hill walk so we couldn't tarry for long.

Gorgeous, whooshing sound as hot air fans the flame.

Wonderment

Looking wild in the morning freeze breeze

Waving to the sky people

Breakfast was again a colourful conversation and sharing of travel stories in many languages: Spanish, Japanese and English.

We had two lovely Skype times with Luke's friend, Liam, and my parents.  Fancy that, from a cave in Turkey to Melbourne, Australia!  The wonder of technology!

Mad cat, couldn't get down from second storey window ledge!

School was on the morning's agenda and we accomplished what was required!  Yeah!!  Karl found an online FREE children's book site: www.magickeys.com/books/ and Luke was impressed with the books available.

Just drinking in local scenes: Goreme doorway

We decided to start out on our afternoon adventure to Uchisar, a town 5 kms from Goreme as we were intrigued by the castle on the mountain top and surrounding buildings.  The walk up the hill took a while as we kept stopping for panoramic views which really cannot be rushed or passed by!  Tim was now feeling unwell - Turkish Trots - so to speak, and opted to walk back to our cave for a rest.

Uchsar Castle in the distance...our goal for the day!

Dr Suess MUST have visited here: no one could dream up such a place!

Looking down on Goreme

Imagine!

Camel with beanie for nose bag!

Karl, Annika, Luke and I weren't quite sure where we were going but followed our noses up little paths and cobbled alleyways to the foreground of the Uchsar Castle.  Dark clouds were gathering over the distant hills and mountains and the little produce market was packing up.  We bought some Turkish sweets made from sultanas and a hardish gelatinous paste from a dried fruit seller which were moreish and tasted sort of "healthy"!  We also bought some sun dried apricots from him and sampled dried mulberries and cranberries.

Karl enjoying Turkish sultana sweet

We then decided to pay the small fee to climb up the castle.  The first part of the castle reminded us of the underground cave city of yesterday.  The rest of the climb was outside as the walls had crumbled.  We wondered about the graves/tombs on top and they were simple Byzantine graves.  The view from the top, the highest point in Cappadocia was magnificent and we could see snowy Mount Erciyes in the distance.  Although I would have loved to go hot air ballooning (very expensive for our travel budget: $AUD180 each), I actually think our view from this height over many kms was better.

Walking up to the castle

Byzantine graves

Top of the castle

Castle interior

Interior of castle with storage holes in cave walls

Many of the rooms are hollowed out in the rock and are connected to each other with stairs, tunnels and passages. At the entrances of the rooms, there are millstone doors, just like the ones in the underground settlements, used to control access to these places. There is a great deal of erosion and not all rooms were accessible. Most of the rooms, located on the north side of the castle are in use as pigeon houses (dovecotes) today. Pigeons are highly regarded here! Farmers have used these cave pigeon houses to collect the droppings of pigeons which has been an excellent natural fertilizer for the orchards and vineyards for centuries.

Looking over Pigeon Valley

Pigeon Valley

There are also many other pigeon houses in Pigeon Valley which connects Uchisar to Goreme. We would have loved to walk back to Goreme through Pigeon Valley but the weather was really against us! Most of these cave dwellings have been painted white to attract the birds and their valuable droppings and hopefully not bless walkers' heads!

Not the only time recently that we have felt on top of the world!

The chimneys looked small from the great height of the castle

Storm clouds gathering over Cappadocia

The rain clouds blew over us just as we reached to exit of the castle and we set out in search of food for our uber lunch.  We happened to pass a pottery shop and the pottery is SENSATIONAL and we got talking to the owner much to Annika's chagrin!  He was a former tour guide and was so interesting that Karl and I had a great talk with him!

His family have been potters for 250 years and lived in the cave house which is now his display area which he happily showed us.  One piece of interest was the Hittite Wine Vessel (see photo below).  Only gifted potters can make these, apparently, and they are made in four parts.  The Hittites used to fill these vessels with their wine to drink, stand them in a way that the sun would shine through the hole in the middle and "bless" their wine and then drink it!  He, too, mentioned the apparent tunnel which connected the two main underground cities of the area and about the Christians, then the Armenians living underground prior to the Turkish owners of today.  He also mentioned the pigeons and Pigeon Valley and told us that the Hittites and other communities who have found refuge in the caves, used the pigeons as a warning system.  If an army was marching toward the settlement, the pigeons would take flight and alert the settlers to their approaching enemy! We love this incidental oral history that is so much more colourful when told by a local than from a guide book!

Hittite Wine vessel

 By this time is was really uber uber lunch we needed as it was 4 PM, raining and freezing outside.  After a few inquiries we found a cafe which served hot chips and it filled our criteria and in we went!  AND they served REAL cappuccinos and milk shakes so we were delighted!  The coffee was marvellous!  I chose a borek to eat while the others had their hot chips.  To my surprise and delight, Luke ate most of my borek!  He is so reluctant to try new things and he gobbled this borek with gusto.  So, now there is one more food to add to his repertoire!

Copper urn

Uchsar Cafe

Finally a really delicious coffee!

So cold was it when we exited that the 200 metres to the dolmus stop felt much further in the biting wind.  Snow is definitely in the air!  The dolmus was nearly empty and the other two passengers grinned in solidarity at our cold wet selves.

It is only a short walk up hill to the cave from the bus stop and it was SO great to be back in the warmth of our little home.

Goreme street scene: Someone's doorway, someone's home

Landscape cat - purrfect colours!

Dinner was back at Ottoman Cafe where we were treated so well given complimentary tea and oranges.  We drew on a piece of paper for their wall mural.  Luke wants to bring his children here so they can see his drawing!