The Ordinary versus the Extraordinary – A year of travelling with three children: 13 March 2015

To think we have been travelling for 3 months now, having left Australia on 13 December 2014! We have been on the move for one quarter on our planned time away and so far, it has been WONDERFUL....mostly!

Ante-chamber outside our cave

Finally a bit of sunshine in Goreme! Breakfast was busy today with a blend of nationalities around the low tables: Israelis, Chinese, Japanese and us! Good conversation and information sharing over a slow breakfast and umpteen cups of tea and coffee to fuel us for the day!

As it was clear weather we chose the morning for exploring. We took a dolmus to Nevsehir past and through the amazing Cappadocian landscape. We changed buses there to go to Derinkuyu and travelled on top of the plains through farm land to the underground city. Lots of snow capped mountains were not too far away and we felt like we were driving through the country similar to the Bogong High Plains. The countryside here is so very rocky and it seems that even over the centuries of trying to tame the land to make it productive, the rocks keep rising.


The only real indication that there is anything there...apart from the ticket booth

It's ok for Luke - he didn't have to duck!

When we arrived in Detinkuyu, the locals pointed us in the direction of the underground city. It would have been easy to miss from the surface but we soon descended into the most amazing labyrinth of tunnels through rooms, kitchens, animal stalls, wineries and even a school (!) to a cruciform church 85 metres down. Some of the tunnels required us to crouch for some metres which was harder going up than down and we were puffing at the top!

Little rooms and nooks everywhere

Going down

Honeycomb maze and only 10% is open to the public!

Not for unfit or fat

Kids loving the adventure

Repentent walking position enforced

Photo please while we can all stand straight!

55 metre ventilation shaft

Tunnels are narrow and low

Round stone, presumably for rolling and shutting off passages or even ventilation in the event of enemy attack

Cruciform church at the base of the city

Tim checking out the graves

A handstand opportunity

Cave pixies

Which way do we go?

A labyrinth of tunnels

Cave napping

It really was fantastic and we all enjoyed exploring....and we had it all to ourselves!!! A tour group left as we arrived and another arrived as we left!! What a privilege!

The underground cities and cave dwellings, some thought to have been undiscovered so far, formed an extensive network under Cappadocia . There is a school of thought that indicated that they were all connected but this hasn't been proven. They provided a safe haven from enemies and were hidden by houses and had elaborate decoys and traps for enemies. It was interesting the that church was at the very base of the city meaning that the Christians could practice in secret.

Random ruin

Very near to the exit of the underground city was a big disused looking and bolted church. On further investigation it is called: Derinkuyu Orthodox Church or St Theodoros Trion Church. From the website, it does appear to be in use but really looks unloved. It was built in 1865 but the website looks up to date: "Christ is in our midst: He is and ever shall be"! I would have loved to see the interior.

Minimal decoration

Bolted door

External walls

Bell tower

Annika had spotted a sign for cheap kebabs and ayran (2.50 Lira) and we walked until we found the cafe. Typically, it was just filled with men but very welcoming. As it was so cheap, I thought I'd be adventurous and try some wonderful eggplant and beef casserole and some superb rice and beans. This was served with a typical Turkish salad of tomatoes, cucumber and red onion as well as lashings of ekmek (bread) A veritable feast! The others stuck to their kebabs but tasted a bit of mine!

Eggplant and beef casserole

Luke actually enjoying ayran (buttermilk)

Typical Turkish salad

There's no holding Tim back!

Seriously yummy

Coal stove (smelly smoke in air over town) and water boiling

Approaching Goreme on the bus, these caves were clearly occupied. I like the sound of one cave for the parents, one for the children and a mandatory man cave for men to hide in - and a craft cave for me and my friends! May be that's where all the women are: in their caves!

Extended family home!

Back to Goreme via the two buses again. Karl and I had spotted a rotating machine of sorts as we entered the town and walked back to check it out. It was a rug/carpet washer and airer!

Dyed wool drying

Only in Turkey - Carpet washer!

Then time for school, protests as usual from Luke but did a day's work in the end.

These biscuits are my favourite biscuits EVER! - school work "encouragement"

We walked up the back streets and stairs to Sunset Peak, just a little bit late, to see Goreme glisten by the little lights in all the cave windows. It looked like those illustrations in Dr Suess books when all those little characters creep along tunnels for miles with lanterns to light their way!

It really looks like we are in a movie set at times

Ascent to Sunset Point

Evening light on our way up the hill

Lighted chimneys

Dr Suess, where are you?

Dinner was at Ottoman Cafe: a cosy, friendly and cheap cafe which we will go back to. I had spinach and cheese gozleme and it was excellent! A brisk walk in the cool night air back to our pension was great after the warm cafe. We saw Asaf, the Israeli psychologist and the Mexican family from Pamukkale waiting for their night buses. We remarked how at home we feel here already!