Tuesday, 31 March 2015

31 March 2015 - Es ist sehr windig....and we walk to Markdorf

It was funny this morning when Karl and I wondered when summer time started in Europe only to realise that it started two days ago.  So that was why I was so tired in the morning and why it felt too light at 6 PM yesterday!  We remarked on how light it was at 6 PM and thought summer time would be even lighter but now we know it was already summer time!!!  The perils of travelling and not speaking the local language!!

Tim and I went for a morning walk to collect supplies.  On the way back I stopped at our local bakery and joined the queue of friendly locals and smiled my way through most conversations!  I managed to ask for my vier Bretzel when the time came and bid the bakery lady "Danke Schon" and "Tschuss"!

 School this morning was reasonably productive which was excellent.  The wind howled for most of the morning and the weather was wild.  In this historic house with its thick walls and modern double glazed windows, we are surprisingly cosy.

Checking the angle of our floor again!
 Luke's eating habits are fussy at the best of times but we have found some food here which he enjoys.  Today, he has wolfed down two whole fresh mozzarella cheeses, raw snow peas and egg noodles and a pretzel.  We are thinking we'll try to cut out as much sugar as we can from his diet as his behaviour has been appalling.  Today's school was good so maybe, just may be, we are on to something!  We really had little sugar at home and whilst we have been travelling have certainly blown the "no sugar" bit!

Lunch break after morning of school.

After lunch, despite the howling wind, we decided we would walk the 8 kms return track to Markdorf.  Markdorf is much bigger than Bermatingen, which we didn't realise, and is another historic town.  There are so many walking tracks in this area, that we walked all the way there through vineyards and orchards and old farm buildings.  So lovely!

Walking tracks whereever you turn, some sign posted, others not!

This is a big wine area.

Through the vineyards, towards the town of Markdorf, snow capped alps in the distance.

I think this was still partly in use but very much needed some love before it falls down.

LOVE these old wobbly buildings

Door to little old church locked - 1776 - I would have loved to see inside.  We thnk the chalk markings might be made by pilgrims.

A 19th Century roadside chapel
 We felt like we were walking through private property at times, and perhaps we were, but it seems that the walking tracks are available to all.  Every now and then we see another walker or two with their hiking sticks and packs.  It was really great not to have to walk on the roads.  There are a number of little churches and chapels in this area and from what we can find out, they are on the way of the Pilgrimage of St James (Jacobus) which extends through Germany having started in Northern Spain.


Nobbly tree....I think I can see lots of gnomes looking out at me!


Street friends to hand around with!

Meeting the locals

More street art in Markdorf.
One side of old tower

Other side of old tower 1562 - would love to see the sundial on a sunny day!

St Nikolaus Church, Markdorf
We went through St Nikolaus Church built in 1370. It appears to have been extensively renovated and what could be salvaged, was, like some old frescoes and plaques, and they had been incorporated into the newer building.  None of the stained glass windows had survived the centuries.  Markdorf town was established in 817 AD - over 1200 years ago.

It was raining when we came out of the church and we found shelter in a bakery!  Luke opted for a plain croissant (good because it was sugar free!) and the rest of us, chose a selection of pastries to try.  As we always have water in our bag, we don't stop for drinks as well, which significantly reduces the cost.  Today's bakery cost about AUD$7, and we can stretch our budget for that!

An apfel-quark something, a berliner, nusschockolad bretzel and a kirschetasche..or something like that!
Our walk  back was WILD as we confronted the strong headwind.  I was glad of my hat and hood as it was the type of wind which just about destroys your eardrum because it was so cold and so strong!

As we were walking, we reflected on how the different seasons are so celebrated in Europe, much more so than in Australia.  This bitterly cold wind will soon give way to more sunshiny days!

Monday, 30 March 2015

30 March 2015 - Bakery treats and a quietish day

The church bells tolled 7, then 7.30, then 8 O'Clock.  Time to get up to a rainy day.  Tim is an early riser whereas the other two kids slept in and it was so nice to catch up with some paper work early in the morning without "assistance".  We constantly feel we are on a slope and indeed we are!

The side of our house...Karl worked out the floor is on a 2.5 degree angle..no wonder we feel a bit unsteady!
We made it a family excursion to walk down to our local supermarket and check out the groceries.  We bought a few unknowns such as meat which looked like bacon and turned out to be some kind of corned beef with a vinegary flavour and also some "Dickmann's, which were an oversweet apology to our Chocolate Royals!  So much fun tying to work out what is what!!

Super Dickmann's!

Chocolate lamb

Pascal lambs

Scone bunny!
The bakeries have traditional Easter goodies for sale but no hot cross buns.  They have Pascal lambs and rabbits as well as the delicious pretzels, cheap compared to Australia.  Morning tea was loads of fun!!


Pretzels!

The only time I'll eat rabbit!

Pretzel muncher

Walking is really the best way to notice things.  Luke noticed a snail on the wet pavement and thought it was an albino snail.  It may well be but we think it is the type of snail which lives in this area. We had never considered snails might be different!

Local snail - different from our Aussie snails

 In the late afternoon, when Tim was feeling frustrated with Luke's antics, Tim and I went for a walk to find a quiet spot for him to do some maths.  We walked to St Georges Church (1602), found it open and sat in the silence of the pews and Tim did some algebra!  I looked around the church and saw the faded frescoes of 1602 as well as beautiful stained glass windows. The bells tolled for 5 O'Clock and we headed home along the back streets.

St Georges Church

Note 1602 at the top of the fresco

Beautiful stained glass window
More stained glass windows.
17th century folk art on the walls of the church.

Ceiling fresco
 Another walk with Karl, Luke and Annika to once again give Tim some space led us through back streets!  This rooster reminded us of Rocky from Chicken Run.  He was hilarious - so protective of his hens and they were so attentive to him!

Rocky and his girls!
We think this contraption is a wheat winnower.

Dinner was interesting with the vinegary corned beef, delicious local potatoes, a range of veggies, sauer kraut and fresh mozzarella!  The dairy products are really cheap here and the fresh mozzarella is very moreish!  Living like the locals!

Sunday, 29 March 2015

29 March 2015 - Speisen Wieserfest in Ahausen made us smile in our hearts!

It was oh so good to sleep in this morning and wake to the distant church bells tolling 8 O'Clock!  Their sound is gentle and distant and not as alarming as the Muslim call to prayer we heard in Turkey. We managed a slightly gappy Skype call to my parents and it was good to touch base.

My parents were wondering why we chose to stay in Bermatingen! The very basic answer is that it was cheap (AUD$50 per night) for a spacious house in the countryside where we can gather our thoughts and energy and the kids can catch up on their school work.  This is the advantage of slow travel.  It is unsustainable to race about continually changing places and countries for the long haul.

Before I go further, apologies to my readers from the other day when I referred to The Sound of Music. Captain von Trapp was supposed to go to Bremerhaven, on the North Sea, a long way north from here rather than Friedrichshaven on the Bodensee!  Friedrichshaven is close to Austria so I figured that would have been easy!...and here I was thinking I knew the movie script off by heart!  We are still planning to watch it soon enough while the mountains are still fresh in our minds.

Today, Palm Sunday, was going to be a fairly mundane day.  It was a grey sky, slightly drizzly day and as nothing is open here in sleepy Bermatingen on a Sunday, we figured it would be a quiet one! But we were wrong!!

Footy in the local park.

The kids wanted to go to the local soccer field with their Aussie football for a run around and kick.  That done, we decided to walk to the next village, Ahausen, which is 2 kms away.  Country air is so invigorating!

Pretty river running through Ahausen.

Roadside chapel which may have been built by the Catholics to annoy the Lutherans, then in the middle of the road
 It is a peaceful rural area with very few people or cars about. We ventured into Saint Jacobus Church in Ahausen and saw faded frescoes from 1600's!  I was much more thrilled about these than the kids were!  It was a beautiful little church, cold inside and enveloping in an old churchy type of way.  The bells started tolling for midday and rang on for a while, heralding I don't know what....maybe Palm Sunday, may be the Aussie visitors!

Kirche St Jacobus

Faded frescoes in the church

1600's fresco

...and then the bells tolled for midday!

Their was a memorial for fallen soldiers of the two world wars and a simple iron cross nailed to a rock.  Most had died in Russia in the second World War. The Iron Cross originated after 1219 when the Kingdom of Jerusalem gave the Teutonic Order the right to combine the Black Cross with the Silver Cross of Jerusalem. It became the symbol of the German army.  But we don't mention the war here....

Iron Cross memorial for WW1 and WW2
 We walked on through the village and saw some cars parked..mmm...may be there was something going on...and then we caught the aroma of sausages on the crisp air....and followed our noses!  And there it was: The Speisen Wieserfest 2015 - Countryside Dining festival 2015 - complete with steins of beer, a German Folk band and a bier hall set up for lunch.  The smell of wurst and pommes drew us closer and we took a seat!.  Annika and I managed to order lunch without giving away the fact that we didn't really speak German!  Following the wurst gobbling (4.50 Euros for a generous serving of wurst and pommes) we lined up at the cake table and had trouble choosing from the most amazing selection of homemade cakes (a generous slice for 1.50 Euros).  We enjoyed every mouthful of Blackforest cheesecake, apple and walnut cake and pear and almond cake and MORE...but enough was enough. What a find!!!  Tour groups never have this kind of experience and there we were joining the locals and enjoying every minute of it and smiling in our hearts!  The music was wunderbar and some of the band members were decked out in their lederhosen!

Menu!

German folk band - note the lederhosen

Cakes which were unbelievably delicious!

Blackforest cheesecake

Apple and walnut cake
There were plenty of farm vehicles to try out.  One of my faves was the robo mower which was mowing the grass all by itself!  Luke had a great time driving German vehicles.
Luke driving a tractor.
 It is always nice to wander through pretty streets and check out the houses and gardens.  Lots of people have colourful eggs hanging on bare tree branches for Easter.  The bulbs are all starting to bloom and in the few weeks we are here, there will be even more flowers.  Everyone seems to take care of their gardens and shopfronts so well and everyone is ready to welcome spring time with flowers.  Spring is a real celebration!
Pretty and fairly typical garden.

Old shingles tiles on old house.

Our street.
Back to our house, feeling happy, fed and ready for schoolwork (sort of).  The internet was fixed in our absence so we feel things are getting into order.

It was a quiet afternoon of homework and games and remembering Palm Sunday in the absence of a church to help us.  I wondered what the little Grace Community Church of Bodrum did today for their Palm Sunday celebration and how the people of Christ Church, Bangkok, marked the occasion.