19 February 2015 - Snow and slush and more of Istanbul with a cover of white.

More snow overnight and plenty of cars stuck on sides of roads who were caught in the blizzard conditions.  Really so very pretty.  We even saw some policemen throwing snowballs at each other.  It has brought life to the city and the people's faces!

Walking takes so much longer in the snow and slush.  As the snow was 20 cms or more deep on the footpaths, the slush is deep, too.  In no time my shoes were full with ice cold water.  The boys couldn’t resist endless snowballs and breaking off icicles.  I think we all had a few near misses as far as falling goes.  Apparently, this is the end of the snow but with freezing temperatures, the ice on the paths and roads will be treacherous tomorrow.  Crossing the roads is a challenge enough trying to remember which side of the road the vehicles drive and whether they’ll be able to stop at red lights!

These people were keen to help.  The ladies eyes were shining with joy through her niqab.

Admiring their work!

Taller than Tim!

Everyone loves a snow man!

Our next stop after Istanbul will be Bodrum in the south of Turkey.  We took the Metro to Otogar, the big bus station, to buy our bus tickets: Metro Turizm bus cost 80 Lira each for the 12 hour overnight journey.  This company has been recommended on Trip Advisor.  The boys were well occupied building another big snow man with the help of some locals so we could take our time undistracted to buy the tickets.

Snow angel!

 Kebabs for lunch before our next leg of the journey!  We now order just chicken and separate bread for Luke and he eats it and loves it!!

Kebabs at 5 Lira each!

 We took Metro and tram to Sultanahmet and then trudged through the sludge, sloshing and slipping to Topkapi Palace.    The travel websites warn of long hot queues but no queues today!!! One of the advantages of travelling in this season!  Topkapi Palace is one of the places I visited in 1984 when I travelled by myself to work on a kibbutz in Israel, and explore Egypt, Greece and Turkey.  I think Istanbul has changed SO much in the passing years as far as transport and feeling “European” goes, but the ancient sites and history of course doesn’t change. The ticket prices do, though!! 30 Lira entry for Topkapi Palace was steep for the boys who preferred to build snowmen and throw snowballs. 

Ayasofia

The Bosphorus

Slightly hazardous handstands in untested snow.

Entrance to Topkapi Palace

Keeping warm.

 We were very cold by the time we got to the palace which is a museum of separate buildings housing jewellery rich with rubies, emeralds and diamonds and other ornate pieces of little practical use and beautiful gardens.  Topkapi Palace was built over time from 1478 and was the seat of the Ottoman sultans for 380 years and describe as a city within a city.  There was a display of holy Islamic relics and an Imman calling out prayer (we thought it was a recording but he was there, singing loudly and broadcasting over kms!).  Several pavillions with lovely views included a Summer Pavillion for the sultan to entertain his ladies and a Circumcision Pavillion for the poor little princes – all so grand with blue tiles, stained glass windows and swooning lounges.  I would have enjoyed a fire in the old fire places and Turkish carpets on the old stone floors as well!  It was bitingly cold.

Part of the treasury - Topkapi Palace

Assembly Hall

Pavillion tiles

Summer Pavillion

The Bosphorus.

Asia and Europe!

Old city walls

Piffing snow balls at the roof overhang hoping it will tumble!

Scene from Narnia?  Lions and lionesses...frozen...

Assembly Hall roof

Assembly Hall - ornate everywhere!

Love this snowy tree!

  The gardens were sparkling in the snow and big pieces of “dachschnee” kept falling from the roofs as well as the occasional icicle!  There was a marvellous view of the Golden Horn and Bosphorus.  The water was busy with boats although it is winter.  The old ramparts also covered in snow are only intact in parts.  Cafes and chairs and ice cream stands that would be packed in summer lay covered in thick snow and deserted.  Clearly, everyone is enjoying the unexpected delight of late snow.

Sensational icicle.

Sparrows enjoying the wintery carpet.

Treacherous walk to the shops!

Nothing escapes the snow!

I did remember visiting the Harem which housed 5000 women all those years ago and was keen to see it again…but there was another extra 15 Lira charge for that each.  At this stage the kids were at the end of their snowballing tether and Luke’s gumboots had sprung a leak so it was time to go home.

The snow had melted further and the unavoidable puddles were deeper and my feet were at screaming point with cold.  We went via the bakery we had found the other day near the Grand Bazaar and bought some more sade.

Poor cold doggies!

Once home with warm feet, we braced ourselves for the adventure to the Real Hipermart again for food.  Luke and Karl stayed home to do school work and the big kids and I took the “walking route” down dangerous slippery stairs and streets.  Mostly there were no cars as all but the main the roads are still impassable.  We were really quite tired after the walk (1.4 kms each way) which isn’t far but when you have to watch every step and plan every move and walk purposely all the time, your muscles really protest. One’s brain does, too.  It is not a pleasant stroll but it is exciting!  Quite a few of the community cats trotted by us in the twilight, unbothered by their snowy homes. Locals leave out boxes for them and feed them.

We had promised Luke some chocolate just for him if he did his school work.  The struggles have been major but as we set out on the shopping walk, I said to the kids that we should pray for cooperation from Luke.  We bought the promised chocolate bar, and were able to tell Luke that we had expected him to behave, so we had done so.  He was delighted of course and so were we – let’s hope it continues from now on! 

Annika cooked a lovely meal for us and we went overboard with the Halva and chocolate bars as the kids listened to our tales of our youth and people we know.  You never know how these conversations start!  We also thought about those over the centuries living in these parts with inadequate heating and shelter, back as far as Biblical times, when no doubt people experienced snow and ice without the comforts we have.  We saw some Gypsy kids on the train today who had begged from us the other day, poor little kids.  We don’t see many beggars here but there are some and as I remarked the other day, quite a few decrepit dwellings in the back streets.  We are truly blessed.