Showing posts with label Istanbul. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Istanbul. Show all posts

Thursday, 19 March 2015

19 March 2015 - Nearing the end of our time in Turkey - it has been amazing

We feel so at home in Turkey now having been here for nearly 6 weeks!  The language and signs don't seem so foreign now as we understand bit by bit, a little more Turkish.  We can negotiate the Metro system, identify our favourite biscuits and spot cheap kebabs! We reckon if we lived here for a year we could manage with basic conversations.  The Turkish people are mostly very friendly and willing to help.

Annika and I think we have sussed out the mystery of big hair under some of the scarves that mostly young women wear as we saw a slightly opaque scarf which showed a bonnet type of wrap underneath.  A fashion statement?

Big head scarf
Racing for our deadlines for schoolwork before we leave Turkey, school was top of the agenda today after a walk to Real, the supermarket.  We thought a vigorous walk up and down the steps and hills of our local area would set Luke up for a better day of school work and it seemed to work!  School was fruitful today although Annika is having some frustrations about how she should submit her magazine project as formatting is tricky.  She has done the work but the actual submission is taking so much longer than she had hoped.  At home, she would print out the assignment and hand it in but online submissions have challenges of their own.  A steep learning curve!  

Our mission for the afternoon was to return to the Grand Bazaar to find some new runners for Tim and have another look around now that the weather is nice.  Our last visit there was on a very snowy day  when all we could think about was cold feet.  Today still has a real nip in the air and the low sun in the late afternoon had lost its warmth but it was dry! 

Gate 1 to Grand Bazaar - Imagine it in 1461!!! Den of Thieves?!


One of the gates to the Grand Bazaar
Inside the labyrinth of the Bazaar

Roof of the Grand Bazaar - 1461!

Lights and lamps...

All those ceramics...I want them ALL!
 Once again we were coughing our way through the supposed smoke free halls of the market as vendor after vendor puffed their stinky cigarette smoke at us.  We didn't stop at their stalls as our personal protest!  The beautiful ceramics and lights and scarves and and carpets and jewellery create a real Aladdin's Den atmosphere and I could buy them all!!  I dream of a delightful rainbow set of little plates and bowls but we just can't carry them with us.  I settled for another irresistible scarf to add to my travel collection....much to Karl's protest....he is not a collector (apart from wood and metal scraps in our garden which ":might come in handy") but I so like a memoir from each place I have visited (and would buy more if I dared!).

My little "Turkish Delight" - he has been good today!!!
One of the lovely things about wandering through Turkish markets is their practice of giving free samples to passersby - always with the hope you will purchase, but cheeky us, feel no obligation!  However, it was the pomegranate and pistachio nougat that roped me in this time!! Oh, the flavour and visual impact of this delicious sweet....an opaque ruby red log with the green of pistachios mixed through it...JUST the perfect sweet/sour/nutty combination...I will dream of this!!!  The white nougat version is also tasty but the pomegranate delight wins my vote!

We didn't buy shoes for Tim as there were none in his size!!  We'll have to wait for northern Europe to find size 13 1/2 shoes!!



Istanbul University

We walked past Istanbul University  with its hordes of students milling about at the end of their day.  What a grand entrance it has, fitting in this city of grand buildings and history!

Metro
Home via the Metro to Osmanbey Station on the efficient train system.  We remarked that we were glad to be tucking in for the evening as it feels so wintry.  We are off to Switzerland tomorrow, to snow and mountains so our time in the crisp European air has not yet ended!  I LOVE breathing in the cold, cold air when warmly dressed!

Wednesday, 18 March 2015

18 March 2015 - Fancy an aqueduct in the middle of the city!

We were cosy and warm in our Istanbul apartment with our three loads of washing drying about us on the efficient central heating!  Outside, we saw random snowflakes falling and although they didn't settle, they did give us an indication of the outside temperature: COLD!

It was another school morning, trying to catch up after two days of travelling and it was excruciating trying to motivate Luke.  I used to be patient but this distance eduction program has challenged every ounce of my otherwise reasonable demeanor! Enough said - tomorrow will hopefully be different...please?!

Istanbul is an amazing old city with an interesting history including 4th century AD Roman ruins of an aqueduct!!  This was our excursion for the afternoon.  You'd think the aqueduct would be fairly obvious but it took a while to find!!  In fact, we realised afterwards that we had previously walked under arches near the university that were in fact part of the aqueduct, not just random arches!  The part we were looking for was the 900m continuous remains, through which cars drive and in other parts it is used as shelter for cars, etc.

Still standing strong!
Perspective shot!
Peak hour traffic through the arches!


 While the kids were playing in Fatih Park, I spied a queue where it appeared free honey balls and other pastries were being handed out!   We think it was something to do with scouts or some kind of social service but we were not quite sure.  I must look like a foreigner because a man asked me where I was from.  I said "Australia" and he thought I said "Israel" and launched into a slightly frightening tirade of abuse about killing Muslims and what did I think I was doing in this country... to which I responded again: "Australia, Aus-tra-lia, kangaroo!"  The young people around me in the queue looked somewhat relieved and the irate Turk disappeared into the sea of people.  The Israelis we met in Goreme did mention that they kept their nationality fairly quiet while travelling in Turkey!

In the shadow of such history, a modern playground stands!
Kids at play!
 Fatih Anit Park in the middle of the of all the traffic lanes seemed to be a place for gathering with a monument, little fountains and playground and seats in the sun!  The garden beds were FULL of tulip plants about to flower.  They are Turkey's national flower and originated here and not in The Netherlands.  The parks will be magnificent in a month or so when the flowers are all in full bloom.
Aviation Martyrs' Monument - Fatih Anit Park
Handstand opportunity!
We walked alongside the aqueduct into what seemed to be a very Muslim market and area.  Most of the shoppers were women and it certainly was the largest cohort of "covered" women we have seen in Turkey.  We bought some delicious pastries from a couple of stalls which looked like the local Mothers' Club fund raising cake stalls.  As we wandered deeper into the market, we remarked on the
apparent  contradiction of robed and burqa-ed women checking out racy lingerie and little black dresses.  Maybe behind closed doors they don these for their friends and menfolk but buying them in public from male stallholders struck me as odd.



Muslim market
Muslim style tunics


Love the guy wandering around the market with a tray of bread on his head!

Live catfish still struggling for breath - bit cruel we thought.
It was really interesting wandering around the market as it really wasn't at all geared for tourists unlike the nearby Grand Bazaar.  The live fish fascinated Luke but the rest of us thought it was cruel.  Luke thought he would like to take the catfish home and put them in a tank!  They were huge!

Istanbul is an old city and there plenty of old building needing repair.  These alongside ancient Roman ruins speak of building and material quality!  Even Roman bricks are still in their original places and the arches are still standing!  Wooden dwellings just don't have the same durability.

Renovator's delight!

Same tumbling down building with ancient 2000 year old arch standing intact!
Why not use an ancient arch for a makeshift garage?!

Well made!
Another angle

The end as it stands today
The aqueduct continues up near the university
It was a chilly but fine afternoon as we wandered along the narrow cobbled streets and through the grounds of the Suleyman the Magnificent Mosque, back to the Metro.
 
Suleyman the Magnificent Mosque

Suleyman the Magnificent Mosque
Another street with aqueduct arch

Random ruins lie about and can become a stage!
Our home cooked dinner was satisfying after not being able to cook for the last week or so.  Salmon steaks are less than half the price we would pay in Australia, so these coupled with rice and assorted vegetables made a plain but delicious dinner....followed by some halva!





Tuesday, 17 March 2015

17 March 2015 - Back over the Bosphorus, from Asia to Europe and disembarking in Istanbul



Morning light slowly filled the bus as we journeyed towards Istanbul.  It was our last overnight bus journey for the foreseeable future and I’m glad!  The driver smoked, played loud crackling Turkish music and talked incessantly to the host or ON his mobile phone whilst driving the bus.  A twelve hour trip in an overheated bus was not the most comfortable night.  It is the smoking that gets to us the most.  It seems that nearly all Turkish men smoke and chain smoke at that.  So in the middle of the night when we hopped off the bus for fresh air we had to walk through a smoky haze.  The worst part is that they take a huge lungful of smoke, stub out their cigarettes, board the bus and THEN exhale, filling the cabin with smoke.  We had be allocated seats right at the front of the bus so we copped the full impact of the smoke.  Karl took photos of the driver smoking (which attracts a 1000 Turkish Lira fine, apparently…) and coughed loudly but this really had no more effect than us asking him to stop smoking which seemed to fall on deaf ears.  I am clearing my chest as I write!!!

One option for travel...just a bit tricky with the backpacks!

Having said all of that, we were excited to drive over the great bridge which spans Asia and Europe across the Bosphorus.  A mild early spring morning with a real nip in the air greeted us as we alighted the stinky hot bus – so that’s both Metro and Kamil Koc bus companies that will receive poor reviews from us on Trip Advisor!  Other travellers need to know and learn from our experiences.


Adieu Asia, Hello Europe!



Going over the mighty Bosphorus


As we could not have access to our apartment in Istanbul until 2 PM, we had 5 hours to spend fruitfully.  Prior to our bus ride from Istanbul, when we had travelled with Metro, we made use of their great waiting room and free Wi-Fi.  We expected Kamil Koc to provide the same but NO – no Wi-Fi and a very basic waiting room AND they wanted to charge for left luggage.  You live and learn and we quickly decided that today was NOT a school day!

Annika and I, rather boldly, went into the Metro waiting room, used their free Wi-Fi to check a few emails and then , as Karl was more than happy to read in peace, the kids and I walked to IKEA which was close by and had breakfast there.

Now, that was a surreal experience.  We could have been back in Victoria Gardens IKEA.  We even saw our doona covers and all the familiar IKEA furniture and toys!  The signage was in Turkish and the food counter on the other side, but EVERYTHING else was the same.  In our foggy sleep deprived states, it was comfortably familiar.  We made good use of the free refills and toilets!

IKEA in Istanbul...mozarella sticks are different - at first we thought they were fish fingers!

Queuing for breakfast!
Walking back through the huge Otogar (bus station) I was struck by possibilities. Signs to Macedonia, Kosova and Bulgaria, Syria, Sofia and Romania adorn the doorways and the bus company representatives bellow out their destinations to attract custom. “Oh, the places you will go…” (or something similar by Dr Suess – again).

Care to go to Saudi Arabia or Bulgaria by bus?

Or Greece or Albania?

Or Macedonia or Kosova?

Or......?  Visas may be a problem for Aussies but WOW, the possibilities!
 We journeyed on the familiar Istanbul Metro to our station, Osmanbey, and walked to our apartment.  Always thankful for dry weather. We had a lovely chat with our host Mustafa and then settled in and finally put the washing machine on.  After living in the cave in Goreme for 5 days, we are full of grit and particles that fell on our clothes and selves so the washing machine was an essential!!

Monday, 23 February 2015

22 February 2015 - On the move from Istanbul to Bodrum

We are experts at packing now and only have our limited amount of stuff to pack.  BUT it is a chore every time.  Grateful that we have brilliant sunshine outside and I am even more grateful that I haven't woken up feeling sick for the first time since Jaipur, India, a few weeks ago.  Hoping today will be a new beginning as far as health goes  because it was becoming rather tiring.

Travelling on the Metro in Istanbul is really easy.  There are escalators everywhere unlike India and
Thailand where there were stairs to drag heavy packs up.  We are travelling on a Metro Turizm bus tonight and left our big packs in Left Luggage for free.  We decided to go upstairs  to the warm comfortable waiting room with its free Wi-Fi!  After restricted Wi-Fi in our Istanbul accommodation it was fantastic!

Metro bus station 49 -59

This where we built a snowman the other  day - now there's only Annika!
I learned a valuable lesson today:  NEVER order a cappuccino when you can't see a coffee machine! I asked for a cappuccino and they indicated that such drinks were available...and I was served one of those packets mixes of frothy coffee - FOUL - and as Annika was with me, they thought we needed two!  I politely swallowed the mixes but now know I should stick to Turkish Coffee rather than trying to have coffee such as I would have at home.  Annika chose some Ayram, (drinking yoghurt most likely buttermilk) which is very delicious - a wise choice.
Ayram

Disgusting coffee!

Unfortunately, Annika was feeling poorly so we had to rest.  This really didn't bother any of the boys who were "plugged in" and didn't mind how long they sat at their screens.

We had our bag of sandwiches with us but mid afternoon we thought it was time for a brief excursion.  We took the train to Yanikapi as it looked like we could have a walk along the coast before our bus tonight.  Wrong!  Yanikapi turned out to be and pretty down and out area and the coast couldn't be accessed because of a motorway!  We found a small strip of grass with some play equipment on it.  Standing under a tree was a mistake as a pigeon above me decided to let loose and poop on my head....grrrr.....especially as we don't get access to a shower until we get to Bodrum tomorrow morning!  My second lesson of the day: DON'T stand under trees or pigeons.

Dinner back at the bus station was kebabs for everyone and lentil soup for me.  We found refuge in the warm  waiting room and charged our devices.  Good service!

One porsiyon of Doner chicken

Lentil Soup
The bus was comfortable as far as buses go and the driver was good at sticking to his lanes unlike the Indian bus drivers.  We drove across the Bosphorus Bridge which links Europe and Asia and also went on a car ferry across the Sea of Marmara.  We couldn't see anything but lights in the dark.  The bus stopped several times and we were also served tea and biscuits and water through out the journey.  The bus made quite a few stops for smokers -  there are many smokers in Turkey - and unfortunately the bus smelt smoky because of this even though they didn't actually smoke on the bus.
Car ferry across the Dardenelles Strait

Lights of the Turkish coast

Our bus to Bodrum

Screens, Wi-Fi, etc...Luke wasn't complaining - but all movies were in Turkish!