Showing posts with label Goreme. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Goreme. Show all posts

Thursday, 12 March 2015

12 March 2015 - More marvellous scenery and exploring in Cappadocia

It was dark and warm in our cave when Annika's alarm went off to speak via Skype to her support teacher at DECV at a time when she was still at work and was just feasible for us (0630).  We had to walk up the stairs to the common room in pouring rain but the call was good.

Our cave door - the way is narrow...

Breakfast is included here which is very reasonable for us given that we are paying less than $50AUD per night for our cave room.  I love the breakfast in Turkey but the kids would prefer cornflakes to olives, feta, yoghurt, cucumber, tomato and fresh white bread!  Karl and I filled up on a day's worth of hot beverages while we don't have to pay more and enjoyed a great conversation with Asaf from Israel who is a psychologist who has spent the last 6 weeks learning how to whirl with the Dervishes!!


Turkish breakfast

Breakfast room

School time in our cave.

House extension....
The pouring rain had really set in so it was a good morning for school.  Despite protests, Luke did a day's work requirements so that's a plus!

For morning break we walked to the supermarket for some ayran and biscuits.  on the way back, Luke and I chatted to a carpet specialist who, in his low season, had plenty of time to talk.  He mostly repairs old dowry carpets and kilims.  He told us about the natural dyes: walnut shells for green, indigo for blue, plums for red, saffron for yellow and henna for orange.  He had some roughly spun wool in a dye pot to show us. The craft work is superb, but we can't buy and we were tempted!

Potted tree

Farm land

3 storey cave

Apple orchard
Distant mountains in this unique landscape
 By 2 PM, the rain had stopped and we rugged up, bought our kebabs for lunch and walked to the Goreme Open Air Museum.  For 20 Lira we could explore 7 amazing cave churches in various states of preservation and marvel at every one!!  Some of the churches were established in 2th Century AD, and rustic red wall art can be seen from that era but the monastic time in Goreme was booming in 12th and 13th Centuries and the most beautiful art work and frescoes remain in various states of repair on the internal walls and ceilings.

12th Century chapel wall paintings


Almost on our knees by the time we got inside half of the churches!

Doorways are as big or small as the people wanted (or could be bothered to carved out)

Dr Suess must have visited here for inspiration!

Internal steps

Window to the valley

Chapel nave

We think these troughs were for feet washing before entering the chapel

Views so spectacular, I just took photo after photo

A "chime of chimneys"?!

Sitting down for supper at the carved table and chairs - we saw several of these.

Outside the Church of the Sandal

Church of the Sandal

The Apple Church, Church of St Barbara and Church of the Sandal stood out as the best preserved/restored.  Just walking around the relatively small area and seeing all these little churches and chapels gave us a  picture of the vibrant Christian community it must have been here.

Most excellent paintings in on of the chapels

We were trying to make out what the Greek letters were and work out the context of the paintings

Look up to Christ!

After all these centuries, the frescoes are still so colourful.

"I lift my eyes unto the mountains..."

The late afternoon sun shone a light over the whole valley

Older church paintings - 2nd  century

Clearly not done by artists, but done with passion

Bright sun shine

McMansion?!

Castle?

Climbing to heights for a view.

Love the picture frame.
 
Farm dwelling and surrounding land

Rock adventures

Mare and foal

Cow shed

Goats

Goats again

So high up!

We walked back to town via a few little cave farms and their hill dwelling livestock.  We did wonder how they got water to the caves and for their animals - and we don't know the answer to that yet.
I often feel a bit nervous when they climb up high...but kids will be kids...

Tim was determined to climb higher!

Tim finds a high spot no one else dared to go to.

Yep! Mr Fitness reaches heights again!
Earlier in the day we had spotted the cheapest cafe yet and planned to go there for dinner.  However, in the dark we took a while to find it and it was closed.  We had a nice simple meal at the restaurant opposite which also supplied us with the nicest bread yet!  We'll go back there!  We walked back along very quiet streets.  We can only imagine in Summer when the tourists flock here but for now, we can enjoy the peace.

Wednesday, 11 March 2015

11 March 2015 - Early morning arrival in Goreme

Our bus pulled into Goreme Otogar at 0645, in the rain, and we were feeling a bit tired after another all night bus ride.  Things didn't go well for Tim...firstly he tried to put his pack in the stowage compartment under the bus and bumped into the little Metro bus guy, who hit his head and gave Tim a foul look, then as Tim had taken a whole (rather than a half travel sickness tablet as advised by me), he was almost rendered unconscious and the same Metro bus guy panicked and put lemon cologne on his forehead and over his nose so he woke with a start, dazed and disorientated, and then, at 0500 hours the guy tried to pull Tim out of his seat because the man next to him needed to get out!  Poor Tim thought he was being arrested! !!  AND then he bumped heads with the same guy AGAIN at the luggage compartment.  Karl labelled him "Little Stalin" because they told us off for eating and laughing on the bus and THEN the driver started smoking as he drove.  Not pleasant!  Not to mention the old bloke who had moist coughing fits throughout the night and turned everyone's stomach.  A most memorable journey!

Street view in Goreme

We were directed up the cobbled road to our booked accommodation; Ishtar Cave Pension.  We have a 5 bed room in a CAVE!!!  It is cosy and warm and neat and clean and Luke is using one of the little carved alcoves as a Lego area!

Front of our accommodation

Our dorm at Ishtar Cave Pension

Five neat little beds...almost as if Snow White has got things ready for her dwarfs!
Cave cupboard or Lego playing area!
Caves everywhere!

No longer someone's home - I hope

Looking cold..

Rome Church remains
After our night of travelling we were all feeling dazed and crotchety so we headed out for a walk towards Rose Valley.  Goreme is set among the unique "Fairy Chimneys" which my friend, Carolyn Burnett, called Dr Suess Land that is a great description!  Dwellings and hotels, some inhabited and some derelict are set into the rocks and have been carved out to form caves.


Formations due to volcanic activity

I guess that's where we walked!!

Tim is always able to find a place to flex his muscles!

Ab's and tricep dips!!
 The potted description of the geology of this area is that the sedimentary rocks formed in lakes and streams and it was an area of active volcanoes approximately 9 to 3 million years ago. The rocks of this area, Cappadoccia, eroded into hundreds of spectacular pillars and minaret- like forms. People of this region carved out houses, churches and monasteries from the soft rocks of volcanic deposits. Goreme became a monastic centre in 300–1200 AD and there is plenty of evidence of this.

Up and down and through...


Stunted pink blossom tree

This one looked like a dinosaur!

It was a blustery and cold day and the fruit trees in the little orchards near the cave dwellings are hardy little plants, like giant bonsais which are now in blossom.  there are plenty of desert like wildflowers hanging on toughly to the arid windswept soil.

Note the dwellings in the caves

Pointing heavenwards

This zone contained dwellings with rooms and internal steps and a church!

Perspective photo - Tim versus rock formations

Entrance steps are big for little legs

Looking out the window!

Framed!

Visitors not encouraged at this home!

Our walk took us up and over lots of hills, in and out of caves and we marvelled the whole way!  We found a little chapel or church with rustic painting on the rocky walls as well as liveable rooms and stairways!  We were free to wander and wonder!

Little cave church we stumbled across

Inside the church

Wall paintings in church

Framed again!

Add captionPanorama of sorts - can't quite get the vastness captured

Caves and orchard

Only rock climbers welcome - forget elderly parents and less fit visitors

Papasan chair!

Handstand territory
 We were following a series of amateur signs pointing to Rose - the Rose Valley where the rock layers are shades of pink and red.  A spectacular view indeed!
Rose Valley from a peak

Amazing orchid - the only one spotted on our long walk

Yellow wildflowers bring colour to a grey backdrop

Perfect handstand!

Our search for cheap food is always part of the day and inevitably kebabs in Turkey and today was no different.  I did have a gozleme - a feta filled pancake with tomatoes but the others stuck to what they normally have!
So cold and tired were we that we sauntered back to our cave room and tucked up for the afternoon before we went back to the same place for dinner.  The lentil soup was perfect.  Tired we all were keen to go to bed.